Laughing While Lost In Austen

I first heard about the book Lost in Austen when our very own Sara wrote a review of it back in March 2008. It sounded interesting. But I never got my hands on a copy (including hers) to read.

But this week my husband and I rented Lost in Austen, the TV mini-series by Image Entertainment. Wow! We were so pleasantly surprised with how humorous and entertaining it was.

I went into it with low expectations as I couldn't stand the photos showing Jemima Roper as Amanda with her modern hair hanging in her face. Even as a time traveling character. I understand it from a characterization point of view - to distinguish her as from another time/place - but after a few days in Rome you should be following their ways. It bothered me throughout the entire 3 hour film but the distorted story line took some of the attention away.

Amanda switches places with Lizzy Bennet from the famous Pride & Prejudice story. She then realizes that her appearance is disrupting the endeared story we all know, so her task is to make sure the proper characters meet at the designated times so they marry later. You think that Amanda will succeed until a beloved sister ends up with the greasy minister who makes us cringe.

What? How did that happen? Ok - this story just got twisted. Now that it had our attention we were trying to guess at what was to happen next. Every character you *think* you know is somehow a little bit or completely not what you think. Wickham - nope. Caroline Bingley - definitely a surprise. Mr. Bingley - yeah....

A few of the costumes were adequate (Caroline's were some of the best) while others were greatly lacking; definitely rented from the popular costume houses like Cosprop as I spotted a few from other films. Bonnets were of a wide assortment. A few decent styles while some straws screamed "costume" rather than clothing (really didn't like Jane Bennet's wide brimmed topping). Most of the menswear as well looked like Halloween ensembles instead of properly tailored coats and breeches.

So don't see it for Regency research. But DO see it for a laugh and jolly romp with some of our favorite Jane Austen characters (including Mr. Darcy in his wet shirt). Lost in Austen is a great film to put on while sewing your new 1810 picnic dress.

Corset Sewing Contest - Deadline Approaching!

For all those signed up to participate in the Corset Sewing Contest, you have 7 Days (by October 31st) to email your photos to us. Go HERE to verify what we need for your entry.

Feel free to write up a brief summary of your creativity and sewing progress. Although we are judging on the sewing construction, a description of what we see in your photos will help us understand your details.

If you haven't signed up yet, there's still time to enter. Please remember to have an eligible entry your photos must show your work-in-progress.

Good Luck!

Dressing the New Cook

To celebrate the Autumn season, my husband and I hosted an English Regency dinner party. Our guests included a Duke and Duchess, a Dowager Duchess (a widowed mother of a Duke), ladies and gentlemen down to simple country folks. My husband was the Earl of Averton, I his Countess, and we reside at Avery Hall. (I just love researching old family names to create fictional historical characters.)

The event was sponsored by our civilian reenacting group (HCA). To make the ocassion special, we hired a caterer to prepare all sorts of English treats. This new cook at the Hall just happens to be my sister-in-law, Mrs. Brown. Although she sews, part of her discounted fee was to have me take care of her clothing for this costume-required party.

Now Mrs. Brown lives a few hours away so trying to make even a simple Regency gown was going to be too much. So I went back a few years and decided on simple, late 18th C. pieces befitting a household servant. The easy garments of a petticoat, jacket and apron can be made with no fittings.

The petticoat (a skirt in 18th Century terms) is a burnt orange colored linen, two panels with a drawstring waist - the back panel tied at the front waist and the front tied at the back as petticoats of this time were made. (Thanks to Elizabeth M. for loaning it to the cause.)

The jacket is 18th C. informal wear. I used the JP Ryan Basic Wardrobe pattern to cut the gorgeous brown cotton fabric. I found the fabric at my local Beverly's and was delighted to discover the name marked on the selvage: Old Sturbridge Village. I then knew it was a perfect choice.

I used a larger size pattern for Mrs. Brown which, now that the dinner is over, I will tear apart and cut it down to fit me in my stays. It closes at the center front with straight pins so the fitting is built into the closure. She wore basic modern undergarments.

The apron was a struggle as I couldn't decide on a plain pinner apron with ties at the natural waist or a more Regency style. I studied the aprons in two Sense & Sensibility films (1995 and 2008) and also the PBS Regency House Party. I swear they used the same aprons in all three of these productions. The short bib with shoulder straps and longer skirt reflecting the contemporary fashions was a big pull for me. (Mrs. Brown is a few inches taller than me so the apron looks shorter than usual on her.)

I ended up going the in-between route. The rectangular bib was cut slightly longer with the drawstring waist edge fitting a few inches above the natural waist. The shoulder straps were pinned in place for Mrs. Brown, and I'll remark them later for me and topstitch to the back waist edge.

To finish the new cook's ensemble, a basic linen mob cap was placed over her hair. (It's the cap I made from the instructions in chapter 37 in the Modern Sewing Techniques for Historical Clothing Construction eBook.)

Mrs. Brown donned white knee socks and black flats to complete the look. I believe she fit in quite well as the new Cook at Avery Hall!

The Discovery

Earlier this week I was reading a bit on what Wikipedia said about Steampunk. It's not a terribly new genre of styling, but it has really picked up steam (pun intended) in recent years. And the fact that Steampunk happens to be the theme for next year's Costume College, this trend is starting to go widespread.

I've always been a lover of Victoriana. Soon after college I went through the activities in What Color Is Your Parachute and racked my brain at what kind of career existed for one with a love of sewing, Victorian decorating, and travel. As the years passed and my closet of Victorian clothing expanded, I realized I could never be a true Victorian - I like my Starbucks and Internet too much (among other things).

In my costume sewing, fantasy costumes have never really entered my "playlist." Personally I've been grounded in everyday clothing, the occasional pillow set or window covering, and eventually, classically styled 19th C. fashion. Those ideas off the beaten path intrigued me, but no space was left in my current list of projects.

Then I heard about Steampunk. A couple years ago the name crossed my path, and I casually read more about it. The base is (generally) a Victorian silhouette combined with elements of steam-powered engines and 19th C. Sci-Fi authors like H.G. Wells and Jules Verne.

Ahh... like Back to the Future III and Clara's purple 1890s costume on the steam train time machine. I got it.

I think Steampunk can give my creativity an outlet without straying far from the Victorian daywear I love. Plus, it throws in that element of travel - time travel that is - something I'm naturally curious about anyway.

So back to the Wikipedia Steampunk article: I came across a term - Neo-Victorianism - that was new to me so I clicked to find out more.

Turns out that is EXACTLY what I am. A Neo-Victorian. This was both a 'duh' and an enlightening moment. A lover of 19th Century stuff (living, memorabilia, clothing, decor, etc.) and trying to integrate those ideas and styles into my modern life. Adding touches of Victorian fashion to my modern clothes sewing. The chivalry and romanticism. (My husband opens doors for me.) The picnics and balls. The dreaming of puffed sleeves and Camelot a' la Anne Shirley.

My house, although trying to be of French Country decor, is sprinkled with treasures flavored of the past. I read Victorian Homes magazine and collect Godey's Lady's Books. But I shudder at the loss of toilet paper, fluoride toothpaste, running water, vacuums, refrigerators, Advil and dozens of other items that make my 21st Century life easier.

I long for the "good ol' days" - but not their trials. I was born a century too late - or was I?

No, I enjoy my modern conveniences too much. But I CAN incorporate my passion of Victorian ideals with my blue jeans and call myself a Neo-Victorian.

I have found my place. Now, about that Steampunk costume....

1870s Cuteness and Sewing Breaks

My, but I’ve been busy. And nearly 3 weeks without a post is too long even for me. (Sorry for not posting more in-progress updates on the Lizzy 1875 Striped Summer Dress.)

I’m in the middle of what I call Sewing Overload and desperately want to NOT sew for about two months. Alas, as I finish my stripe-y cuteness I’m jumping into three more projects to be completed in under three weeks. Yes, I’m insane. (I won’t comment on my unnamed friend’s frothy white & red organdy bustle dress that she STARTED three days before the picnic.)

The 1870s picnic on Sunday was well attended with about 40 to 50 in costume. Everyone looked yummy and it was a pleasant group. We ate, took tours through the Banning House, played badminton and croquet, ate some more, shared stories, relaxed on the cool grass, laughed, delighted in the young children as they ran around in their period-appropriate clothing, and generally had a very nice afternoon.

My dress, in my humble but unashamed opinion, was the cutest costume I’ve ever made. (And I like most (but not all) of my completed projects.) It was 100% finished by Saturday afternoon. However, I was still up late finishing the trimming on my new hat. Exhaustion reigns but I love my outfit.

Being sheer fabric with a lightweight muslin base, the skirt was surprisingly easy to move in and frolic over the grass lawn. The bodice was flat lined in lightweight denim and was just as easy to wear. I think my old ruffled petticoat made from heavy-duty cotton (before I knew better about making petticoats in light/stiff fabrics) was just as heavy as my trained skirt. Yikes! That sucker was dense and hot.
I'm only wearing my lobster tail bustle and pad for support as it's on the end of the First Bustle Era and Natural Form was starting to appear. I wonder how the skirt would look under my Truly Victorian bustle?

And, of course, I have the perfunctory Victorian bow on the bodice back pleat.

The two lower bodice buttons are meant to be unfastened so the bodice lays flat over the hips – partially my fault by not making a mock-up first to test the hip circumference over the skirt, but if you look at old photographs some women show the bottom of their bodices not fastened all the way down for the same reason. So I’m going for a period look here.

… I haven’t stopped with the sewing projects since early July and I crashed in the middle of this bustle project. Just didn’t have the power to keep going. But I did and I’m really happy with the result. But no break for me – yet.

I’m currently planning a Regency Autumn Soiree in early October for my reenacting group. My husband and I are hosting the elegant dinner party complete with period English cuisine for both the afternoon tea and the dinner, a bit of dancing, cards and conversation all by candlelight.

Because this is a costume required event, I’m putting together a quick late 18th C. outfit for the caterer/cook consisting of a basic petticoat, undress jacket and apron. And, of course as hostess and to satisfy my insanity, a new elegant white gown will be furiously put together for myself. All in 17 days.

So the sewing continues. Ahhh…for a break!

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Oops! and Ruffle Frustrations

In my last post I mentioned I had 28 yards of bias strips to gather up for the five rows of ruffles on the 1875 Lizzy skirt. Well... That was only the length of the striped fabric! I had another 20 of the solid blue color!

So, I actually had 48 yards (yes - forty-eight) of bias strips to run through my ruffler foot then pin and sew to the skirt base. (When all was said and done, I have enough pleated ruffle strips left that I don't have to cut and hem more for the bodice hem ruffle and perhaps even the sleeve ruffles. Yippie!)

Speaking of my ruffler foot - AAARRRRRGGGGHHHHHHH!!!!!

So I took my machine in for a cleaning since it'd last seen a tech in, like, 2002. (I have a Viking so it's self-oiling but it does need to be cleaned every once in a while - you would think I'd pay attention to that. duh) Well, I've not had a problem, although the black case where I plug in my cords had a crack right through it and the handle doesn't sit properly anymore. But I didn't think that my special Viking ruffler foot would cause a problem.


Something was amiss as I started running my kazillion yards through the foot. About every, oh, 10 inches or so the needle thread would shred and break. Like it was getting caught when it was moving around the bobbin. I was so confused and frustrated. What would have taken about an hour was nearly 2 and a half to finish the strips. I had to go super slow and the thread would still break.

Apparently the needle was hitting the feeder on the foot. It dulled my needle like nothing else which didn't help the problem as I continued to feed my fabric through. Hopefully that'll not happen again and it'll play nice next time.


But it got done and here is the skirt with the glorious, sheer bias ruffles:


It did end up taking a few evenings and several hours (albeit watching Firefly episodes) to scallop pink both edges of each bias strip. With no sewn hem, the ruffles stay light and airy.