The Historical Sewing Blog

2011-01-08T14:30:00.000-08:00

Thanks for visiting!

You can continue to follow Jennifer's historical clothing projects and thoughts at http://www.historicalsewing.com/ where you'll find new content on a variety of 19th Century sewing topics. Be sure to sign up for the monthly newsletter too.

See you there!

1839 Rosamund's Tea Dress

2010-08-14T19:06:00.000-07:00

I have to say I was quite proud of myself for getting this dress done a full 12 days before wearing it at Costume College 2010. However, I lost sleep the night before furiously trimming my bonnet. Argh! I guess since the dress was done, my motivation and speed fell off drastically, so I drug my feet finishing the bonnet. -sigh-

But the bonnet turned out just dandy anyhow. It's covered with light seafoam green silk with the inner brim in a cream silk and lined in soft cotton organdy. The trim is 2" wide chocolate brown double-faced satin ribbon and two large ostrich feathers (which I stole from a previous Regency headpiece). Tiny faux flowers and their leaves accent the inside brim. Fairly simple really - but the effect was true to the period and perfect!

The dress was made from 44" cotton calico purchased at Jo-Ann Fabrics about nine years ago. I saved all 14 yards for a special "someday" project, perhaps in the 1830s/Romantic Era vein. Well, it found its purpose. It really is wonderful for the period. I even had someone tell me it reminded them of the fabrics in the Tasha Tudor Collection Catalog from the auction in 2007.

As I wandered the halls of the Warner Center Marriott on Friday, I kept getting the same question over and over: What pattern did you use? Um... let me think.

As one gets more experience in creating historical clothing, your selection of patterns to begin forming your chosen silhouette becomes quite varied. Here's what I used:

Bodice: This is perhaps a 3rd generation bodice pattern that probably originated from the Truly Victorian 1830s dress pattern. For this 1839 gown, I put on my 1830 "Slytherin" Green Dress for a first fitting, noting how much to lengthen the bodice and any fitting issues I needed to correct. (Shoot me now, because I still haven't worked out that little horizontal pinch across the back - total ARGH! Perhaps I'll just stand up straighter next time for the photo so no one will know.)

Bertha Collar: Drafted off the bodice and copied the V&A original for a nice look-alike.

Sleeves: I started with Hunnisett's Period Costume book and drafted out an Early Victorian multi-puffed sleeve, then greatly reduced the sleeve head and width. The bands holding the pleats were made from my arm measurements. The cuff was cut as 2-1/4" finished width to keep with what I read in Costume in Detail. (The pleats took 2 hours for EACH sleeve and were a pain to get even. I think that part of the sleeve needs to be cut on the bias. Too late to change now.)

Skirt: Cut from my measurements but relied heavily on my measurements from my 1844 Striped Dress.

The 1839 dress is worn over a linen chemise, cotton drawers, basic Victorian corset, corded petticoat, bustle pad, organdy ruffled petticoat, and a plain petticoat. The look was completed with a belt (Oh so period!) made from gorgeous royal blue ribbon with a mother-of-pearl buckle and a oval brooch.

Shall we to tea?

The Insanity of July

2010-07-12T19:35:00.000-07:00

On one of my sewing bulletin boards I have a button with a picture of Animal from the Muppets with the word "INSANE" at the top. It suits my sewing projects well.

Now, not all my historical costumes are Insane Projects. Only those that pop into my head anywhere from a week to a month before an event - even when I know full well that that event is on the calendar - get the title of an Insane Project.

For 10 years now July has been my Insanity Project month. It's because of Costume College happening around the first of August. What finer thing than to show off your hard work to dozens of those who will admire, compliment, photograph and train-to-make-better-next-time than a group of costuming peers. It's a place to showcase as well as learn.

So waking up one morning in early July, Insanity was calling. 1839? or 1896? I figured that's what I could do with my sewing-from-the-stash budget. I decided on 1839 with this as my main point of reference & inspiration (at the V&A Museum in London):

The fabric is one I've held onto for five or six years for an 1830s dress. I think it'll be perfect here. It's a basic cotton calico I found at JoAnn's and will be piped in navy. I've put in two full weekends now and have a bodice and skirt ready for hand finishing. The underlining is a sturdy white linen.

I started with the bodice from my 1830s Slytherin Dress and did a quick fitting over my corset. For the sleeves, I pulled out my faithful Hunnisett and drafted up a multi-bound sleeve from the era but altered it down quite a bit so it wouldn't be too puffy in the bishop part of the sleeve. I will be pleating it down and adding the piped bands as in the V&A dress.

I decided to make the bertha separate and simply tack it onto the neckline. This way I can add a chemisette with wide collar or a small fichu to change the look without the ruffled bertha collar in the way. (The bertha has still to be patterned and will be done on the gown itself while on my dress form.)

But I must admit - the dress isn't really the Insanity Project.

Nope.

It's the poke bonnet covered in seafoam green silk with brown satin ribbon and ecru feathers that I'll make for the finishing touch. Ack! Running out of time. Only 23 days - now that's Insanity!

(Did I mention my need for a new petticoat?...)

Period Accurate Accessories?

2010-06-30T18:29:00.000-07:00

Over on the Cloak & Corset Facebook page last week I posted the following: "Remember - any accessory, even if not period appropriate, is better than no accessory."
Apparently this advice, shared by a highly respected, fellow instructor and long-time teacher at Costume College, did not sit well with some or was taken out of context. Allow me to clarify my thinking of using accessories in your historical costumes.

First, inasmuch as your time and resources allow, you should strive to complete your period outfits with appropriate accessories. Many times a costume will seem incomplete - most often it's missing the accessories, including shoes, hairstyles and headwear. Accessories are many times the last thing we put our attention to when hastily finishing the dress to be worn in two days. Then we have that crisis moment of "Oh, crap! I need a hat."

Particularly in 19th C. wear, something on your head is a must 99% of the time. Well, for me, I'd rather grab any sort of hat or doily headcovering (within reason) than go without. I know it's not at all period accurate, but my head needs some sort of clothing/decoration.

Now in relation to my "any accessory rather than no accessory" thought, I would not put on my purple Tinker Bell baseball cap to wear with my new white sheer Regency gown. No way. But a simple straw craft hat from Michaels with a ribbon pinned to the top crown and the sides pulled down over my ears and tied under my chin - well, I could live with it if I had to - and knowing I would be getting a much more period replacement as soon as I was able. It's not accurate, but then again, the costume would not look complete without something on my head.

A modern nylon lace fan is so much better than seeing one standing in a ballroom using her hand to cool off . But on the other hand, a neon pink plastic fan would be totally wrong and would only draw negative attention toward oneself.

A plain black modern umbrella (on the small size) can do in a pinch or even one of those tiny white nylon parasols, but don't be taking a modern umbrella with a Monet painting printed on it and expect an historical looking ensemble.

The thought is to research a bit on the period you are re-creating. Look at museum displays, fashion plates, paintings and photographs - only focus on accessories. Get a feel for what the jewelry, gloves, bonnets, reticules and shoes looked like. Be resourceful with the time and money you have to get as close to that look as possible. And ignore the temptation to use any ol' thing because it looks "old-timey." 'shudder'

Remember, accessories can add tremendous value to your historical ensemble. Use them in relation to your outfit (e.g. no bonnets with ball gowns or boots on the dance floor). And always keep working to improve your period accuracy (if that is what you wish).

When Does Fashion Go Out?

2010-06-02T15:09:00.000-07:00

When researching fashion trends of the past it's really hard to tell when the older styles were put aside and forgotten. They usually stay around, being worn by the older folks and those resistant to change, until eventually everyone adopts the new way.

It's kinda like the new iPhones and such. They are the hottest thing in cell phones. But I don't have one. Does that mean my two-year-old phone isn't going to work anymore? I'm going to use it for a long time until it wears out. Eventually I'm sure I'll get some sort of touch phone, but I'll stick with what I have for now.

This is the same sentiment for clothing. I have a favorite skirt from around 2005 that I still wear and isn't much out of style. I'll probably have it in my closet for some time because I love it. And yet, that doesn't prevent me from buying a new skirt today to include in my wardrobe.

All the articles and fashion publications we read from decades past show current trends. Once the new stuff is talked about the old items are lost from the written word.

Take the corded petticoat for instance. Just because the wired crinoline was patented in 1856 doesn't mean the petticoat was discarded immediately. As my five-year-old skirt still is worn, I bet the corded petticoat from 1845 was still worn in 1850 (if it was not worn out of course).

What do you think? How long are fashions worn before they are tossed aside? Would you have continued to wear a corded petticoat when a steel hoop skirt was available?

1800 White Gauze Gown

2010-05-18T20:42:00.000-07:00

It turned out perfect! And I'm very happy with it.

It was a bit of a challenge finishing the inside because the bodice was not flatlined at all. I did, however, cover the bodice/skirt seam with twill tape for support.

The dress is weight-y, despite the sheer cotton gauze fabric, and the shoulders and back neckline take strain because of this. Therefore, I put in the twill tape so it would hug the body snugly and take off some of the weight from the shoulders.

The front closes with two small hooks and thread loops at the waist and a functional drawstring at the neckline. The waistband is a narrow 5/8" wide.

The side back/back bodice seams were sewn together with a hand backstitch. I followed the seamlines of the sketch from Nineteenth Century Fashion in Detail, so I wanted that seam to be topstitched and visible.

You can see the petticoat ties through the fabric here.

Being early Regency, the skirt is gathered all around in the "round gown" style. However, the gathers are not too full around the center front for a more flattering effect. The sides are hardly gathered (to keep the ribcage small in appearance), and the back gathers are concentrated to about 5" at center back.

And here's the dress "in action" as was taken during my "Dressing A Lady" presentation at the Jane Fest on May 8th.

Notice the gown's smooth sides at the waistband. The bodice and skirt are both "flat" here to minimize ribcage width. This is a good tip to follow for any 19th Century sewing - keep space between the arm and ribcage for a flattering look.

What's In Your Sewing Toolbox?

2010-05-06T00:02:00.000-07:00

To tie in with the May 2010 newsletter, we are posing the question: what are your most used sewing tools? I mean, if you were stranded on a deserted island with fabric, thread and needles, what other sewing supplies would you require?

What are you most can't-live-without tools in your sewing box?

Regency Corset Completed!

2010-04-27T21:56:00.000-07:00

Finished! Well, actually it was finished a few weeks ago, but I've been super busy with my new sheer gown so I'm just now getting photos posted of the corset.

(I've also been distracted with geneology research lately. I'm determined to become a member of the DAR: Daughters of the American Revolution , and you need to prove you are a direct bloodline decendent of someone who served (in any capacity) the new democracy. I've found my bloodline patriot: Isaac Workman 1742-1847; now to gather all the proper documents.)

Anyhow... back to the corset: I fitted the mock-up made from the Mantua Maker 1810-3 pattern on my newly updated dressform. Let me just say - I LOVE having a dressform that is my perfect figure.

I only needed the one fitting on the dressform. The adjustments were made to the pattern, and out it came fitting like a dream. I have a nice Regency silhouette now.

Now, flesh squishes a whole lot more than my sturdy duct tape, so the bust is not "fluffed" as it is when actually wearing the corset. My bust sits high and is separated by the wood busk in the center.

You can see above how the wood busk doesn't curve into the abdomen. This makes it easy to breathe, but I'm not sure I like having so much "space" in the front. I can't bring myself to put in a clasp busk (Victorian) in a corset before 1825, so I guess I'll have to live with the shaping.

Again, the back will be laced closer together when I'm actually wearing it.
Oh, and I used 1/4" spiral boning all around as the corset is cut partially on the bias grain. And don't tell anyone I cheated and machine-stitched, in one run, the bias binding. I do use modern techniques when possible or time is of the essence!

Here are the bust gussets. Before sewing the gussets to the main piece I whipped stitched around the folded-in point for reinforcement.

As I mentioned, I'm currently finishing up my white sheer gauze dress. A quick photo of that, along with my other quick Regency projects, will be forthcoming.

Dreaming of a 1798-1802 Ensemble

2010-04-13T22:23:00.000-07:00

In preparation of the Jane Fest in Fresno in May, I have thoroughly immersed myself in Regency research. Whenever starting a new project, even if I'm well versed in the fashion, I *always* go back to primary and secondary sources for new ideas, inspiration and to delve further into the particular period.

I seem to be drawn to early Regency fashion from 1800 to 1810. I rarely think of 18-teens costumes, probably due to my well-endowed bustline and the extremely high waist of that decade. (Although, for another time, I'm becoming more drawn to the 1790s transitional styles too and would love to pull off a nice 1795 full round gown with tall feathers in the hair.)

I remain humble about the fact that I look good in Regency styles. My mentor, Michelle, has a wide ribcage, and therefore has to choose very particular gowns to be flattering on her figure. (So keep your figure in mind when choosing styling details in your new costume projects.)

The dress design will have a low, round neckline with full bodice gathers at neck and waist with a trained skirt also with gathers at the front and the standard full gathered back panel. The opening will be at center front.

My fabric is a natural white cotton fabric that is gauze-like with a windowpane weave. As I was just about to give up my search at my local JoAnn's, I wandered over to the home dec section and found the sheers right on the first row. It is so soft that it'll be a dream to wear. And since it's sheer, I'll also need to whip up a bodiced petticoat for modesty.

I'm working from a sketch from Fashion in Detail of an early 1800s dress. I pulled out my most recent sage green ballgown pattern and spent quite a bit of time altering it. The muslin is cut and ready to be sewn for a first fitting. Although I'm hoping my patterning will allow me to get away with just the one fitting so I can move onto the robe.

Here is the first rough draft of the pattern:

The sleeve head has a 1" seam allowance for pin-fitting into the armhole during the fitting.

Initially I wanted a pelisse to complete my outfit. My model for the Jane Fest presentation will be in a spencer and I wanted to show another example of outerwear (despite wanting a new spencer because I love them). But in consideration of the early style dress, I went with the open robe that is quite popular with early Regency costumers.

I've pulled out my Janet Arnold book along with the Cut of Women's Clothes by Norah Waugh which both show the open dress from the V&A. You can also see a reproduction in yellow on Kate Winslet as Marianne in the 1995 Sense and Sensibility.

But I'll have to finish the dress first before I continue with the robe. So back to sewing...

Updated Dressform Complete!

2010-03-25T20:30:00.000-07:00

A few weeks ago I decided I wasn't going to procrastinate any longer, wasn't going to wait until I lost those few extra pounds, nor keep debating with myself over "corset/no corset" before I re-did my dressform. Enough of waiting!

I made my first Duct Tape Double dressform in 1998. (You can read about my experience (and an early online review) Here at Leanna's dressmaking studio site. Scroll down and click on "Jennifer - Stand and Taping Ideas.")

That form was good back then. It served me well despite the fact that I kept my hands on my hips so the shoulders were raised out of place. This caused issues when trying to fit garments over that area. 'sigh' So for the last few years I've said I wanted to re-duct tape myself for a better and more accurate dressform. I woke up on a Wednesday and told myself I would be doing it that very weekend.

A quick trip to a discount store brought me rolls of silver tape, beige tape and stuffing. I also picked up two cheap t-shirts for the tape to go on. (You wrap your body over the shirts which you then cut through both the tape and shirts to remove the form.) It took about three hours for my husband to wrap me (keeping my arms down at my sides of course!) and another two to drape it over my current form and stuff to fill out the new layer. I will say that it was much easier this time as my fitting skills are SO much better than before. (And that includes my time spent in fashion school a couple of years after the first form was made.)

Measurements were taken before we cut the form off. As I stuffed and taped up the back I took the same measurements so the form was my perfect size (despite it not being my ideal size. Custom sewing is so clothing can fit YOU perfectly; NOT display a number dress size.)

I think the best thing about having a true dressform again is for draping and pattern fitting over the back (a hard-to-fit spot when sewing alone) and getting the armhole cut just right for movement (crucial when making well-fitted historical clothing). And even though corsets will alter the body shape, the upper back won't change much. With time, patience and a good mirror or two, I can manage fitting issues on the front. Even having the hips the right size will help skirt fitting when I throw on a bustle or hoop and petticoats.

I'm so excited to try out the new dressform with my current Regency project. Stay tuned for an update on how it goes. (A new corset is first on the list.)

Spring - The Season of Sewing

2010-03-03T21:52:00.001-08:00

I just love early spring weather! It promotes promise and excitement. It's inspirational, rejuvenating and kind (not freezing or burning hot). Despite the occasional allergy issues, Spring is wonderful!

And as soon as it starts to appear, so does my longing for those unfinished or simply imagined costumes. Every idea starts to swirl around my head: new 18th C. stays; that upper class Civil War day dress in a bright color, complete with new bonnet; the 1890s inspired Steampunk outfit to go with my fur-lined goggles received as a Christmas gift from my mom; a new Civil War shirt for my husband; the embroidered white 1845 ball gown; the 1862 ball gown; a 1916 dinner gown for a summer party; and the Regency everything.

And I do mean everything for Regency. I absolutely LOVE the fashions of that era. But since I can't make it ALL right now, I have a few select pieces on the docket.

You may have heard that I am a special guest speaker at the West Coast's first annual Jane Austen Festival, hosted by JASNA, on May 8th in Fresno, California. I will be presenting a "Dressing A Lady" lecture. Now, I'm not actually the one getting dressed; but I do need to be fabulously attired in new garments for the occasion. (But of course!)

My thought is a new day dress with elbow-length sleeves. Perhaps a chemisette for the day which will be removed for the evening ball. And I'll need to sew up my first pelisse. My model will have a Spencer jacket, so I want to have a pelisse available as a second example of outerwear. (Below is a silk pelisse from the Museum of Costume, Bath, UK.)

But before that I'm tossing around the idea of making period stays. My current early 19th C. corset is fine, but the bust gussets are a bit too small. (A point I discovered is EASY to do when fitting this type of corset. Don't take in the gussets too much to compress the bust. It should be gently cupped and not firmly held like later Victorian corset shapes.)

I'm considering the Past Patterns transition Stays but am unsure about the bust gussets for a full-busted woman. I may just make it up anyway and add a good amount of fabric support in that area along with a strong drawstring around the top.

And before the month is out I want to re-duct tape myself for a new, more accurate dressform. I made Jennibeth in 1998.

I think it's long past time for a new one. Then I can actually drape a new Regency dress. I SO want to have a period one with a tiny back and wide-set sleeves. Draping is the best way to accomplish this; and fitting oneself on the body just takes way too many attempts to get it right. I'll keep you posted on the dressform re-make.

So enjoy this new season. Be inspired. Be creative. Look to nature's new wardrobe colors for how to add them to your own historical closet.

Happy Sewing!

Victorian Jet Trim Anyone?

2010-02-02T20:23:00.000-08:00

I was recently going through my plethora of historical magazines and other publications to ready more yummy Vintage Articles for Cloak & Corset members when I came across this bit of trimming.

From Godey's Lady's Book, June 1867, you can totally see how easy this trim would be to make for your upcoming Victorian project. You could use any sort of rayon or silk cord with bugle and seed beads. As mentioned, black faux jet beads would be stunning here. But what about red, or royal blue, or emerald green? Use your imagination, and trim away as our ancestors did!

Passionate About Petticoats

2010-01-18T16:16:00.000-08:00

One of my biggest pet peeves about admiring reproduction historical clothing is being able to tell where there is a shocking lack of petticoats. A woman may have the most beautiful gown, the correct silhouette, and fabulous accessories - but it can all fall flat if she doesn't have enough (and I do mean that) petticoats. One petticoat usually doesn't cut it.

The worst offense is when a hoop skirt is worn. Have you ever seen a Civil War or 1860s skirt where a distinct wire row is visible about 6" to 12" above the hem? (yikes) Sometimes the row is seen even with a petticoat. Sometimes that one petticoat is not enough. Obviously.

It really IS ok to wear multiple petticoats!

They won't hurt and will make your costume that much better. If you don't want several waistbands under your skirt, set the petticoat panels onto a yoke or set them all together onto one waistband.

The two early-1850s skirts below would not have that gentle bell shape without the use of multiple petticoats supporting them underneath.

I just cringe when I see a fantastically made 1890s gown only to notice the skirt falling limp against the wearer's legs. Even if the skirt has all the proper panels and hem width. And simply adding horsehair or other stiffener in the hem won't cut it. The problem is NOT ENOUGH PETTICOATS.

Our ancestors knew the secret to a fashionable silhouette. They knew that you won't look the same with just a skirt about you, over your chemise and drawers. They knew the extra foundation skirts, cut just so, would show the world your fashionable eye.

So many problems can be solved by adding an extra petticoat - that airy ball gown skirt will stay put; the bell shape you desire will form; the cold air you feel will be dispelled; that train will lay flat.

Plain, corded, ruffled, trained, gored, tucked, paneled, shaped, tied - you name it. That extra petticoat or two could be the missing element of your costume.

Give it a try!

Sewing Has Been Done!

2010-01-06T20:50:00.000-08:00

After a much longer break than expected, the sewing bug bit last weekend and I actually accomplished something! Although it's not anything historical in style, it does add to my closet. :-)

Way back in high school (20 years ago!) I made most of my own clothes. I LOVED doing it. When I discovered how to make Victorian clothing my world changed. I've only done the occasional modern top or skirt or window drapes since then.

This fall I stocked up on some beautiful suiting fabrics in royal blue, bright rose pink and a navy/teal paisley. I was determined that if no costume project called to me I would add to my current work wardrobe.

The patterns have been altered since November and the fabric washed. Finally I got going on cutting out the blue blouse and skirt. I'd made both patterns before but altered the skirt ruffle slightly this time.

I love it! It fits nice and looks like a suit (even though the top is unlined). Just wish it wouldn't attract so much static! argh

And it showed me what happens when you don't sew modern stuff for a while. My historical skills took over and I sewed the collar perfectly around the whole thing leaving the space open between the center back notches. Trimmed the SA's down to a scant 1/16" to 1/8" turned and pressed.

Well, I sewed it on the bodice then stitched down the facing. Whoops! I had the two ends of the collar flapping loose from the top. Yikes - what happened? Seems it works better when you sew only the outer edge of the collar, turn and baste to the bodice. The neckline edge of the collar is then sandwiched between the bodice and facing. Duh.

Maybe I'll hurry and get the pink suit made before I forget how to sew modern clothes. For now I'll leave the "sewing around the whole thing" for my historical skirt waistbands and belts.

First-Person Reenactor Site: Homespun Living History Guild

2009-12-19T21:20:00.000-08:00

The Homespun Living History Guild site has many articles on first person reenacting in the 18th and 19th centuries. If you're looking for more civilian information on portraying characters from the past, Victorian Rumble's essays will certainly delight.

Check out her recent posting on Christmas in the 1800s. It's filled with popular decorations, food and sweets, lifestyles, and war-time celebrations in the Victorian era.

There's also a post on Civil War hairstyles gleaned from several period sources.

And if you are working on creating your 19th C. persona, Victoria has also written "Portraying the Victorian Woman" to help you along. It is nicely composed; however, the CDV's in the Upper Class section might simply be women in the middle or upper-middle class. It is hard to be definite without names.
Upper class members at reenactments are rarely found. Extensive research on this monied group must be done before you attempt it. (If unsure, stick to upper-middle class and you'll still get to wear the pretty gowns and leave the cooking to the servants.)

Victoria Rumble is author of Thistle Dew Books, one of which is Victoria's Home Companion, or The Whole Art of Cooking which is a Fabulous book on 19th Century cooking.

Working With Taffeta Bodices?

2009-12-08T07:26:00.000-08:00

Finding the right underlining for taffeta (anything, really) can be a challenge. Last night I was discussing this with my friend, Bridget. She's a buyer for Renaissance Fabrics, and she mentioned they have a new 60" cotton twill that flat lines taffeta beautifully.

19th Century bodices need a lot of under support to hold the bodice in shape, be sturdy enough for boning, and create a firm base for trims. Twill fabric works best for this garment. You can also use a denim or tightly woven poplin as well. Remember, for best results, use 100% cotton or linen or a blend of the two for your underlinings.

So check out RF's new twill for flat lining your latest ballgown bodice. Tell them you heard about it from Cloak & Corset!

The Modern 3-in-1 Historical Garment

2009-12-01T20:36:00.000-08:00

My husband has one of those HUGE coats with a lining that zips out. It's a 3-in-1 where you can wear it 1) complete with outer part and lining, 2) just the outer part, or 3) just the thinner lining part. He loves it too.

Well, I said: What a perfectly modern idea for historical wear! Since we in the northern hemisphere are now into the winter season, a new jacket, pelisse or cloak would be just the thing to try out this contemporary styling.

So when you're making up that next outerwear piece, give it this modern twist. Make up the outer layer properly with a good underlining that will wear and show nicely. You may even make the garment up as usual with a proper lining and underlining. Then, using the same pattern (perhaps cut a tiny bit smaller), make up a single layer of the garment for the removable lining. (Finish the edges with binding or a narrow hem.)

Attach the lining inside the outer layer with ties or buttons along the inside edges. You can try hooks and thread loops but they may not hold as well. For period accurate clothing, you, of course, should never use zippers on any garment prior to the early 1930s. Snaps would also work, however they would show when the removable lining was not attached.

So... what a modern take on 19th C. clothing! If you live in a cold climate that extra layer may be just the thing to take you through three seasons. Try using a good cotton or wool flannel for coziness. Then you'll be all ready for that skating party, a walk in the woods, or for traveling to the ball.

Have you already used this trick for a historical outer garment? Write a comment below or send a note to sewing@cloakandcorset.com to let us know your success with it.

Corset Contest - Winners Announced!

2009-11-17T20:00:00.000-08:00

Our guest judges and I were wowed by all of the entries for the first Cloak & Corset Corset Sewing Contest! The hard work really showed through. We found it difficult to narrow down the winners as each corset entry had so many good things going for it.

I want to shout out a very warm Thank You to our guest judges, Liz Gerds, shop manager of Farthingales LA and Maegen Hensley, executive assistant at BCBG and Dean of Costume College 2009. Both of these women are accomplished corsetieres and know what to look for in the fine details of Victorian corset construction. Thanks again ladies!

Without further delay, here are the winners of the 2009 Corset Sewing Contest:

Grand Prize: Sahrye Cohen

First Place: Deborah Toy

Second Place: Lisha Vidler

Third Place: Chantal Filson

Congratulations to the winners!! Very well done.

Remember, the contest was judged primarily on the sewing construction of the corset. Fit, fabrics, pattern drafting, etc. were, however, taken into consideration when they affected seams, busk and grommet settings, and overall support and shape of the corset.

Additional photos of the winning corsets will be available for viewing on our website in the near future.

Again, congratulations to the winners and thanks to everyone who entered!

Off-Season or Burnout?

2009-11-15T18:22:00.000-08:00

I greatly admire those people who can be continuously working on some sewing/costume project or another. Their knack for always having "something to work on" astonishes me. If I go through too many projects back-to-back, I crash. Hard.

If I have more projects coming due, I allow myself a couple weeks to chill then get back to work. I value my breaks and wear out too quickly if I don't get them. (Do you need break time?)

So I'm currently on a LONG sewing break otherwise known as Costumer Burnout. After each Costume College I take August off, but completing the 1870s striped Lizzy dress for the September picnic was hard for me as I just didn't feel like sewing. Then HCA's Regency Soiree at my home demanded a thrown together outfit for the cook - with no energy (and time) left to complete my own new gown.

And I'm *still* not ready to tackle those two modern business outfits sitting on the cutting table - with pattern altered and fabric pre-treated to bat. True burnout has arrived.

As I read over many of your blogs, LiveJournals and other sites, I find the common thread of burnout at this point in the year. Perhaps it started in late summer/early fall. Or now that Halloween is over you are DONE for the year.

Even with costuming events continuing into the holiday season and beyond (i.e. Victorian skating events, parties, Jane Austen teas and balls, etc.) it seems like our creativity never has a chance to take a breath and rejuvenate.

So I call for a costumers' off-season. Let this time be one to plan your large dream projects for the coming year - complete with deadlines. Brush up on your research of a particular period, garment or technique. Sit by the fireside and embroider for an hour while catching up with good costume dramas or simply chat with family and friends.

If you are one of those who MUST have something on the table when the next event is months away, pull out those long-forgotten undergarments in need of repair or construction.
Make a new set of drawers and chemise.
Attempt that ruffled petticoat you've been putting off.
Take on an entirely new article, the Corded Petticoat. When that Dickens festival, Alamo reenactment, or Gold Rush Days event gets scheduled, you'll be prepared.

Don't let Sewing Off-Season get you down! If you are burned out, re-focus on those people and activities that are just as dear to you as your historical projects. When you're refreshed you'll be ready to take on even the most challenging articles on your list. Enjoy the time off.

Laughing While Lost In Austen

2009-10-31T19:08:00.000-07:00

I first heard about the book Lost in Austen when our very own Sara wrote a review of it back in March 2008. It sounded interesting. But I never got my hands on a copy (including hers) to read.

But this week my husband and I rented Lost in Austen, the TV mini-series by Image Entertainment. Wow! We were so pleasantly surprised with how humorous and entertaining it was.

I went into it with low expectations as I couldn't stand the photos showing Jemima Roper as Amanda with her modern hair hanging in her face. Even as a time traveling character. I understand it from a characterization point of view - to distinguish her as from another time/place - but after a few days in Rome you should be following their ways. It bothered me throughout the entire 3 hour film but the distorted story line took some of the attention away.

Amanda switches places with Lizzy Bennet from the famous Pride & Prejudice story. She then realizes that her appearance is disrupting the endeared story we all know, so her task is to make sure the proper characters meet at the designated times so they marry later. You think that Amanda will succeed until a beloved sister ends up with the greasy minister who makes us cringe.

What? How did that happen? Ok - this story just got twisted. Now that it had our attention we were trying to guess at what was to happen next. Every character you *think* you know is somehow a little bit or completely not what you think. Wickham - nope. Caroline Bingley - definitely a surprise. Mr. Bingley - yeah....

A few of the costumes were adequate (Caroline's were some of the best) while others were greatly lacking; definitely rented from the popular costume houses like Cosprop as I spotted a few from other films. Bonnets were of a wide assortment. A few decent styles while some straws screamed "costume" rather than clothing (really didn't like Jane Bennet's wide brimmed topping). Most of the menswear as well looked like Halloween ensembles instead of properly tailored coats and breeches.

So don't see it for Regency research. But DO see it for a laugh and jolly romp with some of our favorite Jane Austen characters (including Mr. Darcy in his wet shirt). Lost in Austen is a great film to put on while sewing your new 1810 picnic dress.

Dressing the New Cook

2009-10-15T07:13:00.000-07:00

To celebrate the Autumn season, my husband and I hosted an English Regency dinner party. Our guests included a Duke and Duchess, a Dowager Duchess (a widowed mother of a Duke), ladies and gentlemen down to simple country folks. My husband was the Earl of Averton, I his Countess, and we reside at Avery Hall. (I just love researching old family names to create fictional historical characters.)

The event was sponsored by our civilian reenacting group (HCA). To make the ocassion special, we hired a caterer to prepare all sorts of English treats. This new cook at the Hall just happens to be my sister-in-law, Mrs. Brown. Although she sews, part of her discounted fee was to have me take care of her clothing for this costume-required party.

Now Mrs. Brown lives a few hours away so trying to make even a simple Regency gown was going to be too much. So I went back a few years and decided on simple, late 18th C. pieces befitting a household servant. The easy garments of a petticoat, jacket and apron can be made with no fittings.

The petticoat (a skirt in 18th Century terms) is a burnt orange colored linen, two panels with a drawstring waist - the back panel tied at the front waist and the front tied at the back as petticoats of this time were made. (Thanks to Elizabeth M. for loaning it to the cause.)

The jacket is 18th C. informal wear. I used the JP Ryan Basic Wardrobe pattern to cut the gorgeous brown cotton fabric. I found the fabric at my local Beverly's and was delighted to discover the name marked on the selvage: Old Sturbridge Village. I then knew it was a perfect choice.

I used a larger size pattern for Mrs. Brown which, now that the dinner is over, I will tear apart and cut it down to fit me in my stays. It closes at the center front with straight pins so the fitting is built into the closure. She wore basic modern undergarments.

The apron was a struggle as I couldn't decide on a plain pinner apron with ties at the natural waist or a more Regency style. I studied the aprons in two Sense & Sensibility films (1995 and 2008) and also the PBS Regency House Party. I swear they used the same aprons in all three of these productions. The short bib with shoulder straps and longer skirt reflecting the contemporary fashions was a big pull for me. (Mrs. Brown is a few inches taller than me so the apron looks shorter than usual on her.)

I ended up going the in-between route. The rectangular bib was cut slightly longer with the drawstring waist edge fitting a few inches above the natural waist. The shoulder straps were pinned in place for Mrs. Brown, and I'll remark them later for me and topstitch to the back waist edge.

To finish the new cook's ensemble, a basic linen mob cap was placed over her hair. (It's the cap I made from the instructions in chapter 37 in the Modern Sewing Techniques for Historical Clothing Construction eBook.)

Mrs. Brown donned white knee socks and black flats to complete the look. I believe she fit in quite well as the new Cook at Avery Hall!

The Discovery

2009-09-27T21:01:00.000-07:00

Earlier this week I was reading a bit on what Wikipedia said about Steampunk. It's not a terribly new genre of styling, but it has really picked up steam (pun intended) in recent years. And the fact that Steampunk happens to be the theme for next year's Costume College, this trend is starting to go widespread.

I've always been a lover of Victoriana. Soon after college I went through the activities in What Color Is Your Parachute and racked my brain at what kind of career existed for one with a love of sewing, Victorian decorating, and travel. As the years passed and my closet of Victorian clothing expanded, I realized I could never be a true Victorian - I like my Starbucks and Internet too much (among other things).

In my costume sewing, fantasy costumes have never really entered my "playlist." Personally I've been grounded in everyday clothing, the occasional pillow set or window covering, and eventually, classically styled 19th C. fashion. Those ideas off the beaten path intrigued me, but no space was left in my current list of projects.

Then I heard about Steampunk. A couple years ago the name crossed my path, and I casually read more about it. The base is (generally) a Victorian silhouette combined with elements of steam-powered engines and 19th C. Sci-Fi authors like H.G. Wells and Jules Verne.

Ahh... like Back to the Future III and Clara's purple 1890s costume on the steam train time machine. I got it.

I think Steampunk can give my creativity an outlet without straying far from the Victorian daywear I love. Plus, it throws in that element of travel - time travel that is - something I'm naturally curious about anyway.

So back to the Wikipedia Steampunk article: I came across a term - Neo-Victorianism - that was new to me so I clicked to find out more.

Turns out that is EXACTLY what I am. A Neo-Victorian. This was both a 'duh' and an enlightening moment. A lover of 19th Century stuff (living, memorabilia, clothing, decor, etc.) and trying to integrate those ideas and styles into my modern life. Adding touches of Victorian fashion to my modern clothes sewing. The chivalry and romanticism. (My husband opens doors for me.) The picnics and balls. The dreaming of puffed sleeves and Camelot a' la Anne Shirley.

My house, although trying to be of French Country decor, is sprinkled with treasures flavored of the past. I read Victorian Homes magazine and collect Godey's Lady's Books. But I shudder at the loss of toilet paper, fluoride toothpaste, running water, vacuums, refrigerators, Advil and dozens of other items that make my 21st Century life easier.

I long for the "good ol' days" - but not their trials. I was born a century too late - or was I?

No, I enjoy my modern conveniences too much. But I CAN incorporate my passion of Victorian ideals with my blue jeans and call myself a Neo-Victorian.

I have found my place. Now, about that Steampunk costume....

1870s Cuteness and Sewing Breaks

2009-09-22T21:41:00.000-07:00

My, but I’ve been busy. And nearly 3 weeks without a post is too long even for me. (Sorry for not posting more in-progress updates on the Lizzy 1875 Striped Summer Dress.)

I’m in the middle of what I call Sewing Overload and desperately want to NOT sew for about two months. Alas, as I finish my stripe-y cuteness I’m jumping into three more projects to be completed in under three weeks. Yes, I’m insane. (I won’t comment on my unnamed friend’s frothy white & red organdy bustle dress that she STARTED three days before the picnic.)

The 1870s picnic on Sunday was well attended with about 40 to 50 in costume. Everyone looked yummy and it was a pleasant group. We ate, took tours through the Banning House, played badminton and croquet, ate some more, shared stories, relaxed on the cool grass, laughed, delighted in the young children as they ran around in their period-appropriate clothing, and generally had a very nice afternoon.

My dress, in my humble but unashamed opinion, was the cutest costume I’ve ever made. (And I like most (but not all) of my completed projects.) It was 100% finished by Saturday afternoon. However, I was still up late finishing the trimming on my new hat. Exhaustion reigns but I love my outfit.

Being sheer fabric with a lightweight muslin base, the skirt was surprisingly easy to move in and frolic over the grass lawn. The bodice was flat lined in lightweight denim and was just as easy to wear. I think my old ruffled petticoat made from heavy-duty cotton (before I knew better about making petticoats in light/stiff fabrics) was just as heavy as my trained skirt. Yikes! That sucker was dense and hot.
I'm only wearing my lobster tail bustle and pad for support as it's on the end of the First Bustle Era and Natural Form was starting to appear. I wonder how the skirt would look under my Truly Victorian bustle?

And, of course, I have the perfunctory Victorian bow on the bodice back pleat.

The two lower bodice buttons are meant to be unfastened so the bodice lays flat over the hips – partially my fault by not making a mock-up first to test the hip circumference over the skirt, but if you look at old photographs some women show the bottom of their bodices not fastened all the way down for the same reason. So I’m going for a period look here.

… I haven’t stopped with the sewing projects since early July and I crashed in the middle of this bustle project. Just didn’t have the power to keep going. But I did and I’m really happy with the result. But no break for me – yet.

I’m currently planning a Regency Autumn Soiree in early October for my reenacting group. My husband and I are hosting the elegant dinner party complete with period English cuisine for both the afternoon tea and the dinner, a bit of dancing, cards and conversation all by candlelight.

Because this is a costume required event, I’m putting together a quick late 18th C. outfit for the caterer/cook consisting of a basic petticoat, undress jacket and apron. And, of course as hostess and to satisfy my insanity, a new elegant white gown will be furiously put together for myself. All in 17 days.

So the sewing continues. Ahhh…for a break!

Welcome! How Can We Help You?

2009-09-02T20:26:00.000-07:00

Just want to give a shout out to all of our new Cloak & Corset members: A very warm welcome!

We hope you enjoy the monthly newsletters, vintage articles, recommended resources and much more found here. Sara and I are busy discussing new ways to give you the information you seek to sew beautiful 19th Century clothing.

But we want to hear from you Today so we can discover what you really need to know for your current and up-and-coming projects.

Just drop us a line at Sewing at CloakAndCorset dot com or post a comment here (see that word "comment" down below?) or even catch us over on our Facebook fan page.

What is your #1 question about 19th Century sewing?

Let us know!

Oops! and Ruffle Frustrations

2009-08-31T19:55:00.000-07:00

In my last post I mentioned I had 28 yards of bias strips to gather up for the five rows of ruffles on the 1875 Lizzy skirt. Well... That was only the length of the striped fabric! I had another 20 of the solid blue color!

So, I actually had 48 yards (yes - forty-eight) of bias strips to run through my ruffler foot then pin and sew to the skirt base. (When all was said and done, I have enough pleated ruffle strips left that I don't have to cut and hem more for the bodice hem ruffle and perhaps even the sleeve ruffles. Yippie!)

Speaking of my ruffler foot - AAARRRRRGGGGHHHHHHH!!!!!

So I took my machine in for a cleaning since it'd last seen a tech in, like, 2002. (I have a Viking so it's self-oiling but it does need to be cleaned every once in a while - you would think I'd pay attention to that. duh) Well, I've not had a problem, although the black case where I plug in my cords had a crack right through it and the handle doesn't sit properly anymore. But I didn't think that my special Viking ruffler foot would cause a problem.

Something was amiss as I started running my kazillion yards through the foot. About every, oh, 10 inches or so the needle thread would shred and break. Like it was getting caught when it was moving around the bobbin. I was so confused and frustrated. What would have taken about an hour was nearly 2 and a half to finish the strips. I had to go super slow and the thread would still break.

Apparently the needle was hitting the feeder on the foot. It dulled my needle like nothing else which didn't help the problem as I continued to feed my fabric through. Hopefully that'll not happen again and it'll play nice next time.

But it got done and here is the skirt with the glorious, sheer bias ruffles:

It did end up taking a few evenings and several hours (albeit watching Firefly episodes) to scallop pink both edges of each bias strip. With no sewn hem, the ruffles stay light and airy.

Sewing, Sewing - 1875 Striped Summer Gown

2009-08-26T18:35:00.000-07:00

My! I seem to be moving quickly through projects in the last two months.

So.... I present my latest "insane" costume: an 1875 blue striped, sheer summer gown. The debut will be at the HCA 1870s Picnic on September 20th at the Banning House Museum in the LA area.

Being that most of my costume ideas start from fashion plates or extant garments, this project is no exception.

This is Plate 12 from Full-Color Victorian Fashions: 1870-1893 by JoAnne Olian. I've admired it for some time as it's girl-y and light. The perfect thing for a "Buccaneer" afternoon frolic over the lawns playing croquet and partaking of fresh delicacies.

My fabric is a 1/16" blue stripe on white sheer cotton I snatched up for $2/yd along with a cornflower blue thin cotton (also $2/yd) for the alternating ruffles, apron binding, back sash and sleeve ruffle accents.

28 yards of bias strips for 5 rows of skirt ruffles. It took two days to cut them all out and another two evenings to piece them and press under the top edge.

I will be pinking the hem (No way I'm narrow hemming that amount of bias!) then running each strip thru my ruffler foot. (Remember this is a one-month project, so must cut corners.)

My support structure is a lobster tail bustle as the Truly Victorian basic bustle didn't give me that tapered, 1875-going-into-the-natural-form look. The TV petticoat (an OLD piece from years ago) is next followed by a pad ('cause I need it) then the ruffled petticoat I used under the 1876 Evening Gown.

Here are the skirt panels sewn and pinned to my dressform. The apron is sewn except for the bias hem trim and it's also pinned on. The sides will be pleated then tacked onto the center back panel. The placket opening is in the center back.

The bodice is my 1879 orange/purple bodice that is such a good fit that the pattern will be used as the base with the hem flared and pleated to fit over the bustle and follow the fashion plate.

Now, to name this airy thing. I usually make up basic, descriptive monikers for my costumes but this one needs a name. Nancy or Annabelle or Grace. hmm.....

1780s Caraco & Quilted Petticoat

2009-08-22T18:41:00.000-07:00

The finished outfit of my 1780s Caraco and Quilted Petticoat:

And the back view:

I simply threw this on my dressform for the photos and did not put the bum roll on first. I made up the roll from Jean Hunnisett's book but lengthened it a bit first for my larger hip circumference.

Although, this being my first 18th C. ensemble, I think I might prefer more of a large bustle-type pillow pad instead. I LOVE 1870s bustles so am used to the larger behind. However with the bum roll, it increased the width of my hips and made me feel fat. I wonder if that would be different in side hoops or panniers as they greatly extend the sides more so than the bum roll?

I used JP Ryan's Caraco pattern made from a 100% cotton duvet from Ikea. I have enough fabric left over to make a matching petticoat. The caraco skirt can also be polonaised up (the correct verb - thank you Val!) which I think will look adorable with the matching petticoat.

Here is the box pleated trim with braid on top. I pleated the fabric strip then ran it through my machine with a basting stitch. I hand tacked the braid on top while simultaneously sewing it to the neckline.

The inside of the center front:

The entire caraco is lined in white linen. The front is simply turned back, a bone added (I used 1/4" metal stays) and hook & eye sets sewn on for closing.

The quilted petticoat is made from a bed quilt from Target. It has one side seam that I flat felled to make the petticoat reversible. The other side I slit down for the pocket access as well as getting in and out of it. The front and back are separate: the back ties in front then the front covers the knot to tie in back. (The photo below is of the back. You can see the front ties knotted at center back.)

I box pleated the centers then put in large knife pleats to take up the remainder of the panel to fit the waistband. (For convenience, I used the 2" wide grosgrain ribbon that came wrapped around the quilt from the store for the waistband.)

I'm quite happy with the results of my first project "older" than Regency styles. I find that I am really attracted to the 1780s but can't wait to make a Robe a la Francaise gown. Hmmm.... I have that gown already in mind. Anyone see The Slipper & The Rose? :-)

So What Happened? (CoCo 09)

2009-08-13T20:23:00.000-07:00

To appease those of you who have been wondering about the adventures of Costume College 2009, here is the event through my changeable blue/green eyes.

THURSDAY: Arrived in mid-afternoon. Unloaded two vehicles with about 6.17 tons of STUFF. (Strangely no sewing machines were included.) Hung out at Info/Check-In to help set up. Sewed last two eyelets in my pink stays straps.

Dressed some funky, beat up mannequins in my 1876 Gown and my husband’s Regency ensemble.

Talked with lots of new and old people. Rolled hair in tight sponge curlers. Can you believe bed before midnight??

FRIDAY: Ratted and sprayed and ratted and sprayed some more to get my own hair into Hedgehog City – circa 1788. Remind me again about why they liked a long straight ponytail hanging from under the cotton ball head cover…

Wore my new 18th C. Caraco and Quilted Petticoat – This outfit brought to you by department stores. Answered questions from the Info Desk. Stuck a kazillion labels on cards for the Random Wheel of Knowledge.

Taught another terrific 19th C. Corded Petticoat class. The room overflowed into the hall with over 30 people again!
Learned about Stays & the Body from Lynn Sorge-English. So... our hunches were right about them not knowing what they were doing.

Quick to the Marketplace for early shopping with Sara. I’m a sucker for navy Regency bonnets. Anyone with me?

20 minute dinner at the hotel

restaurant.

Welcome Ceremony -
which seemed lacking due to Freshman Orientation being held earlier in the day.

More shopping. A quick shower and change – Only 10 minutes to brush out all those rats and tangles! Guess it helps having fine, straight hair.

Time to Panic!

I had a few less people panicking with me this year. But met a lovely mother and daughter from Canada who were finishing the daughter's teal bustle skirt hem. And Laura who loves Elizabethan so much she repurposed her old army uniforms – complete with glowing reflective tape.

(Don’t tell anyone we stayed REALLY late.)

SATURDAY: Curl setting lotion is the bomb! Wore my newly finished 1844 Dress. (Only two years late.) I need a bigger bum pad.

Figured out how to drape a Francaise gown.

Maegen – any time is fine with me to get together and drape our new gowns. (Another project added to the list.)

More shopping.

Did I say I’m a sucker for blue Regency bonnets?

Talked and chatted with so many people every time I visited the Marketplace. Delightful.

Enjoyed Sally Queen and Mela’s Hollywood class. Ooh, we need a whole class focusing on one film and the historical and not-so-historical costuming parts.

Back in the tiny room again to teach about the quickest way to make a Victorian Corset.

Despite the overflow into the hallway and the late hour, I saw nearly everyone find some tip or technique to take home.

Collapse in the room – no wait, need to dress for the Gala. No time! Curled hair, hooked and looped dresses together. Flounced about the room. Rushed to dinner. Danced to a great selection of music. Admired the general “prettiness” of the entire ballroom. Gushed at the marvelous beauties. How did the night go so quickly?

SUNDAY: No Undies but comfy jeans and top. Sally’s class on 18th C. Dress Down Friday Jackets. Inspirational. Can I have them for modern Friday work wear?

Back to Marketplace where I chatted with yet MORE people. (And I wondered why I hadn’t succeeded in completing my shopping list yet.)

Hauled a huge purple bin up to the Hospitality Suite to teach people about the inside of 19th C. clothing. "So that’s how they did that!"

Ok, REALLY have to get my shopping done now – last chance. Then my Hand Embroidery Class where we were all tired out but had fun twirling thread around a needle and pulling through.

CGW Annual Meeting – under 2 hours! You have no idea how excited we were (unless, of course, you yourself were at the 2006 historic SIX hour meeting.) Casey for Director of All Future Elections!

Dinner at Millie’s. Laughed until we cried - several times – I think exhaustion and Wrackspurts had taken over at that point. Chatted about next year. (Helps having the new Dean and CGW VP, Programming Chair and Registrar, not to mention other Committee Heads, with you at the table.)

(I don't really know how Becky was still able to take pictures at this point.)

Back to the hotel where we packed, stayed up way too late discussing plans and changes for next year, then crashed into bed. zzzzz.....

My apologies for not getting up off the sofa sooner and letting you read about the goings on. When you're a teacher, attendee, and committee head, that one long weekend takes it all from you. Now, two weeks later and I'm back to the sewing room. hehe

New 18th C. Forum

2009-08-10T20:43:00.001-07:00

For those who branch out in your historical sewing from our favorites of Regency through Victorian, a new forum discussing 18th Century sewing has just arrived on the web.

Take a look here at Madame Berg's new Historical Sewing forum.

Costume College Photos posted

2009-08-05T21:33:00.001-07:00

Still recovering from the busyness of Costume College and all the work leading up to last weekend. Until I can post a more detailed report, take a look at the C&C Flickr Photostream to see a sampling of what wandered in the halls and classrooms.

It was a fantastic conference and one of the best in my ten years attending. Thanks Maegen for being Dean and hosting this memorable College.

18th Century Wanderings

2009-07-22T22:55:00.000-07:00

Last weekend I got to the sewing point of being able to fit my 1780s caraco and quilted petticoat. The caraco is the JP Ryan pattern and went together quite easily. The sleeves on my mock-up are different as I sewed up one, made immediate alterations then cut and set in the second one.

The skirt part would look very cute polonaised up, but for now I'll omit the buttons and strings to do so. One would like ruched trim rather than extra fluff at this point.

My pink stays are close to done. However, with the lower binding still left to do, it may not be as far as I think it is. In this photo I have four more eyelets to complete the straps, the lower binding (which I've started) and tack in the lining.

Also, the brown quilted petticoat was made up last weekend. The reverse side really shows off the quilting stitches so I flat felled the side seam to make it reversible. Below is the top of the petticoat where I'm tearing it apart to cut down the cotton batting. This will help make a flatter waistband (as well as making it easier to sew).

If you are attending Costume College next week, you can find me in this outfit on Friday the 31st.

Make sure to stop by, introduce yourself and pick up your special Cloak & Corset ribbon.

1844 Dress - Getting Finished!

2009-07-20T20:43:00.001-07:00

My, oh my, but I've been away too long. So sorry I've been up to my shoulders with Costume College planning and sewing. Gee, it must be July!

Anyway, the 1844 Summer Dress is nearly done. The bodice only lacks back closing hook and thread loops, the collar tacked down and the lace around the revers and center point.

I only put in four bones: at the centers and one at each side seam. Because it is tightly fitted and the era doesn't call for fully boned bodices, only these four were needed.

The skirt is marked for the center back cartridge pleats while the rest of it will be knife pleated in to fit my twill tape waistband that will then be whipstitched to the inside of the bodice. Oh, and of course the lace down the sides of the center front bias panel are still left to tack. The wide hem facing has already been whipstitched down.

Overall it's come together nicely - once I got past the several hours of work on cutting the whole project out, including the 325" of bias for piping that wasn't enough so I had to go cut more from my scraps that were left. The cutting took way more time than I expected.

The dress will be worn over these undergarments (plus one more petticoat):

If you will be attending Costume College this year, you can see it in person on Saturday, Aug. 1st as I attend classes and teach my Quick & Easy Victorian Corset Sewing Tips class.

Hope to see you there! And come find me to show off your latest project and receive a special Cloak & Corset ribbon. :-)

Gone With The Wind event

2009-07-16T18:52:00.000-07:00

For those interested in Gone With The Wind (Fabulous but for Hollywood's take on 1860s costumes and make-up), the Marietta, GA Gone With The Wind Museum will be hosting “70 Years of Gone With the Wind: A Re-Premiere" in November. Star signings, a costume ball, special movie screening, and more will be available. Go Here to find out what's in store.

Enjoy the weekend. And remember to avoid studying any of Scarlet's bodices, which are totally wrong, and check out Melanie's delicate bonnets.

If you're a Civil War reenactor, make sure to point out how vital Civilians were to keep our country going while the men (and a few women) were out fighting for whichever cause they believed in.

New Corset Sewing Contest & eBook!

2009-07-06T19:42:00.000-07:00

For Corset Contest Details, visit this page: http://www.CloakAndCorset.com/CorsetContest/index2.php

For more details or to purchase, click here.

1844 Bodice In Pieces

2009-06-30T17:33:00.000-07:00

Whew... June has flown by with very little sewing to show for it. :-(

Now that the filming for the new Quick & Easy Victorian Corset Demonstration Video is over and the eBook is in the final stages before publication on July 9th, I can get back to my sewing for Costume College. Yea!

Here is what I've put together so far on my 1844 Summer gown.

I really took my time cutting each piece separately and then when sewing. Those stripes are something else! I love them.

I also decided to pipe every seam as was done in the 1840s. You can see the back and side back (on the left) stripes line up even with the piping running along the seam. I decided to ignore my grainline (shock!) to allow for stripe matching. The linen underlining, however, is cut on grain for support.

I found this lace from an eBay dealer that was already ivory, so no tea dying for me. Terrific!

All those stripes need something to break up the view, and I think this lace (similar to the fashion plate) is just the thing. But of course, trim on ANY 19th Century garment is required.

The skirt is still in cut panels, but I'm looking forward to a couple of nice evenings hand sewing in the cartridge pleats.

What are your favorite 1840s-set films I could put on for inspiration sewing? Perhaps I'll watch Jane Eyre (2006) again. It's fabulous!

Jane Austen with an iPod

2009-06-17T19:41:00.000-07:00

Over at the Jane Austen Addict Blog, Laurie (Viera Rigler), author of Confessions of a Jane Austen Addict (which I've read and thought was decent but could have been more detailed in characterizations) made a post last month of her new novel.

The cover (a lovely painted picture) on Ms. Rigler's new novel, Rude Awakenings of a Jane Austen Addict, is posted here on on the JA Addict Blog. You have to see it - a lady in a delicate, pure white spotted muslin gown accessorized by a white iPod. Brilliant!

(I just clicked over to Amazon and watched the video trailer for the book - Wow! I may just have to order a copy. It looks very interesting. Time travel and Regency - fabulous!)

.... I wonder if Jane Austen had really had an iPod, what would she have on it? Mozart? Bach? Vivaldi? Handel? And what would have been her favorite? What music would she have had playing in her head while writing of Lizzy in the Lake Country? Or Catherine journeying to Northanger Abbey?

A Lovely Vintage Tea

2009-06-16T19:38:00.000-07:00

Over the weekend I had the fun opportunity to attend a most delightful Vintage Tea in LA. Gina was the gracious hostess (despite breaking her shoe heel) and offered many delicious goodies to munch on while we perused the racks of vintage clothing.

The house and back patio were inviting, the treats yummy (I loved the brownie bites and cream stuffed strawberries!), the people fabulous and the clothing sleek, cheeky and fun!

Don't you just love Chantal's deep-curved 1950s black hat? It was made of awesome! Everyone wanted it.

I met up with my good friends Lana and Jenn (who I didn't know were coming until they arrived). Fabulous-ness!

Racks oozing with mid-20th Century clothes waiting to be tried on, modeled or purchased (for cheap!).

I wore my 1920s brown dress with my red t-strap heels I got at Kohls a couple years ago. I took the photo of me in the large picture mirror. The silver dress and jacket is vintage 1970s (and was a great color for Lana).
I looked through the racks but I normally shy away from 20th C. vintage clothing as it's usually too small for me. But hark!

As I was trying on a few jackets I pulled out this one:

As the buttons were closed I was *Amazed* at the PERFECT fit! It's a heavy satin, probably nylon as was huge in the 1950s as the new fabric. The wide collar and pepulm are trimmed with black velvet, beads and couched cording. It looks home-made because the seams are simply pinked and pressed open and a modern facing finishes the neckline. But the construction is well done.

So I can now believe there were people in the past with my figure traits.
I wouldn't dream of wearing it, but wouldn't it be fun to find an antique 19th C. gown (my choice: 1870s) that fit perfectly? I guess we'll have to make do with sewing our own...

18th C. Pink Stays - Slow But Steady

2009-06-09T19:28:00.000-07:00

I *have* actually been working on my Pink 18th C. Stays since my last post in March even if I've not shown you any in-progress pictures. I apologize for not sharing sooner.

On the pink silk I decided to use 100% cotton blue thread for the bone channel stitching as well as the hand eyelets along the center back.

The eyelets are slow going. Probably because I'm taking my time to not break the one strand of thread I'm using; but it's also due to putting on good costume drama flims that pull my attention away from sewing. Darn those Drool-Worthy Costumes!

Even though I will only be adding in cane boning to every other channel, I'm sad that the sketched bone channels on my pattern get lost in the sea of continuous stitching. The channels with the boning are colored in on my pattern, emphasizing the lines of the stitches and shape of the stays; whereas on the made up stays, they simply blend in. Oh, well. Maybe next time (much later) I'll not sew so many channel lines....

Working in a high-end designer furniture store for the past several years has its benefits: free fabric samples. I dug through my stash and found this large piece of cotton ticking print that was *exactly* big enough for my pattern.

That sample was made for corset lining! I like the muted green stripe color - such a choice for the inside of Pink stays with Blue stitching.

So, I have 8 eyelets left then I can put the five stay sections together and start binding. Ahh.. more costume flicks to distract....

Learning New and Old

2009-06-02T20:15:00.000-07:00

As a teacher at Costume College you might think I don't need to take classes offered by other instructors. I've been attending "CoCo" since 2000, and the thing I like most is getting my class offerings list in the spring (around April) and choosing which classes to take.

My first teaching experience at Costume College was in 2004 when my friend lana/Lily and I put together the Modern Sewing Techniques class. It was Friday morning at 9am. And we packed the house! (Or rather we stuffed 60 people into a small classroom.) My! how so many wanted to learn about the basic, easy-to-learn skills that would accelerate their historical clothing from "that's nice" to "Wow!"

I love teaching at conferences and workshops like Costume College. Giving back and sharing my passion of sewing and my time-honed methods with others is such a joy. I truly love it.

So if I am included in the awe-inducing list of those who share their knowledge at Costume College, what classes then do I choose for my own learning experience?

You might think that it's best to pick classes where you know little about the subject so you can increase your knowledge base. And I do - I am SUPER excited to take Beginning Hand Embroidery this year. I've done very little and most of that when I was younger than 10. I want to have the skills to add this wonderful decoration to many of my costumes and accessories. This would be a new topic for me.

And draping an 18th C. Francaise gown. It is an entirely new article of clothing I have not made but want to learn about. Again, learning a new method. (For more info go here to the 18th C New England Life site.)

But you know what? I also look for classes that will build on those talents I'm already advanced in. Like pressing. Or detailed hand sewing work. Or choosing fabrics. Or matching stripes. My God-given talent is the construction. So why would I want to take more classes on sewing?

Because I love learning - from my students and from other teachers! Everyone knows some thing, some tip or trick, or best fabric source that will enhance another's portfolio. I dwell on receiving new information from my costuming peers. Sometimes that means taking a class or two AGAIN. (I've taken the Regency Overview class from Martha Davis 3 times at CoCo! And I never tire of it.)

It is good to review topics and skills you know - and from a variety of teachers. I wouldn't hesitate, if given the opportunity, to sit in on a corset making class - even when I'm writing an eBook on the topic as you read this. A new instructor may have just the bit of a sewing secret I've yet to uncover that will propel me further in my own techniques.

So I encourage you to search out books, websites, instructors, lectures and workshops to increase your own knowledge of historical sewing. And better yet, on a topic you already are proficient in. One cannot be a master of all. But you can master one area (of costuming).

If you are terrific at embroidery - increase your knowledge and skill of the art. If you drape your own patterns - learn ways to improve the fit of new garments. Focus on the ONE aspect of historical clothing in which you excel. Being a "jack of all trades" will only get your outfits so far. Emphasize that one area you are superb in and the costume will be made of *awesome*.

A Reusable Corset Fitting Trick

2009-05-22T18:02:00.000-07:00

You can also use a heavy denim instead of coutil.

Using the larger grommets here (if you have them) will allow you to use any lacing material you may have on hand for your fitting.

The Drool-Worthy Costume

2009-05-14T21:02:00.000-07:00

How does one make The Drool-Worthy Costume? This is the subject that came up in a recent conversation with my friend lana/Lily.

We both know excellent costumers and seamstresses who make fabulous gowns that have superb construction. Their choice of fabrics, the fit, the copying of period seams placed correctly, the hand finishing - all make for a grand historical ensemble.

Their undergarments as well whisper of days gone by while they cover or add to their natural head of hair to represent what our ancestors wore. They indeed know what they're doing, or have studied and researched enough to create that "just stepped out of the portrait studio" look.

We can hardly find fault with their work. Their creativity is ripe and the fruits of their labor are bright.

But then for some of these spectacular clothes, as we stop and admire and gaze and wonder, something catches us for that briefest of moments - in all its fabulousness - something seems missing. Or it's just - I can't put my finger on it....

Why doesn't it look right?

It seems just slightly off.

What is it? You know what I mean. The magic is not there.

Say you are making your dream dress, copied from an extant (existing) garment. You study, you plan, you search, you find. You sew, you tear, you wash, you iron, you cut, you sew some more, you rip out, you stitch, you hem, you attach. After hours of work it's done. It is beautiful.

But why doesn't it look like the original? You analyze every detail you can find about the special gown. You've copied it exactly. But then why does it not look the same? What's missing?

Where's the magic you saw in the book or on the screen? Did the clock strike midnight and my fairy godmother's spells worn off?

This is the surpreme question that so many historical sewers ask themselves and strive to grasp. We set out to achieve that ultimate costume only to have it fall just short of greatness - the handkercheifs are ready, but no drool comes. What's wrong?

This can be answered in many ways. What are your thoughts?

1844 Final Bodice Fitting

2009-05-06T07:49:00.000-07:00

It's been a couple weeks but wanted to post a photo of my fitted bodice for my 1844 Summer Dress.

(Can I just say the extra bones and darts in the corset help SO much!)

This is the 2nd mock-up as the changes to the first one were enough to warrant this additional fitting.

On my mock-up you can see that my bodice has the revere/side front seam going up to the shoulder point. This was the pattern and I didn't feel like, nor have time, to re-place the seamline to match the fashion plate. You can see in the above plate the side seam heads straight into the center of the shoulder.

But the revere comes down past my shoulder, limiting my movement, which is the style of the 1840s. Demure, pointing down, genteel, soft-spoken, non-assertive, etc.....

And I also was able to cut out the dress a week ago. It took SO many more hours than I expected. I mean, come on! It's a simple dress. Yeah, until I realized (not that I forgot) that I needed to match my stripes. And a one-directional, non-uniform stripe at that.

Here's the pile o' cut pieces:

And all 325" of bias cut and ready to make piping. Now I just have to cut the linen underlining and the muslin skirt hem facing. I can't wait to start sewing as that'll move faster than the cutting stage (which it always seems to do).

In sewing, half your time on a project happens BEFORE the construction. And then, half your construction time is spent at the ironing board (as it should be).

How to Stay Motivated On a Single Project?

2009-04-29T20:33:00.000-07:00

So Gina over on Facebook would like to know how to stay motivated on one project before starting another one.

Goodness!
That's like preparing the dinner menu while eating lunch. It can be done - by being focused on ONE idea at a time. (And you shouldn't talk while eating anyway. Swallow first.)

We sewers all struggle with motivation.

Early in my historical sewing days (about 10 years ago) I didn't realize how much TIME it actually took to complete a gown. Oh! the last minute sewing and VERY late nights I'd put in before an event. And after each event was over and the costume was put away I'd vow not to kill myself like that again.

I set out, determined to overcome this lazy procrastination of letting the fabric sit untouched while I went strolling through my Drool Books - musing over that dream gown that I'd make "someday".

Over the years I've cut down on the Panic Sewing but it's still not entirely gone. But it has become extremely better.

To keep yourself out of the Lazy Sewer's Box and energized on what you are working on NOW is to make it your goal to NOT lose sleep over the project. At what point does it become Not Fun when you lose sleep and get stressed over some clothing?

Set your deadlines and make your lists. Focus on baby steps if you have to. Sooner or not you'll have completed that project (DAYS before the event) and you'll be ready to start the next one.

But What If You Get Bored?

Have you cried at the frustration that your man's "must sew" waistcoat and pants are taking WAY too long and you're dying to start cutting the pretty lavender that will become your delicate gown?
Have you sewn enough seeds beads yet?
Am I done with all this white undergarment fabric yet??

My suggestion for boredom is to prevent it with VARIETY. There's no reason you can't work on multiple projects at once. (I'm currently working on my 1844 Summer Dress (cut out) and my 1770s Pink Stays (bone channels sewn) - pictures to come.)

However, I must worn you about dual projects - they can drag you down to the point of being a Panic Sewer. Do not let this happen.

To avoid this, make your (detailed) lists of steps you need to do to complete a project. Do this for the next two or three pieces you want or need to make. Then schedule your sewing time to accomplish items from one list. For your sewing sessions, focus on just one item or one step of a garment.

I rarely work on two projects in one day unless I have a large chunk of sewing time. Even then, I work one hour on the dress then the afternoon on the stays. And I'm not bored. If I don't like cutting 325" of bias for piping I'll go hand sew eyelets. But I know bit by bit they'll both get done. And when one is finished I'll add in that third project (a 1780s matching caraco and petticoat) to my to-do list.

Do you think these two ideas will help you stay on top of things? What have you found to be your best motivation on a sewing project?

1830s Corset Alterations

2009-04-21T21:05:00.000-07:00

In 2007 I made the Past Patterns #001- 1820s/40s Corded Stay. Initially only cotton cording was sewn in for support along with the wood busk at center front.

Well, after my first mock-up fitting of my 1844 bodice I realized I need to make a few alterations to the corset to improve on its purpose. You know from reading my previous post that I had already added a bone to the sides and one on either side of the grommets. I have now done more.

The current alterations included taking a 1/2" dart out of the back hip gusset to reduce the size around the hip area. Instead of cutting the gusset, I simply took up the excess and sewed a traditional dart from hem to point of the gusset. The corset is only two, thin coutil layers so the dart was easy to manage.

I've also now added a total of 10 steel bones to this thing, including the previous 4. You can see the bone casing I've sewn directly to the inside of the corset. I added bones to the outside of the bust gussets and two pairs to the side back area. These help SO much in the wrinkling factor. And the top now keeps me up where I should be.

I also pushed the busk up to the top and sewed a line at the bottom to hold it up there. I can remove the stitching so the busk can be removed if need be (for laundering).

So case in point: for women with more "squish factor" and curvier figures, basic corded corsets don't support as needed. Steel boning can help wonders for this.

I believe women back then with full bust and hips would have added whalebone along with the cording for a supportive garment if the cording itself was not enough (see photo below). However, with more layers of thicker fabric and a fully corded corset, one could manage a decent fashionable figure.

What do YOU think?

The Young Victoria

2009-04-15T22:22:00.000-07:00

And to keep with the early Victorian spirit around here:

Released in the UK last month is The Young Victoria with Emily Blunt (of The Devil Wears Prada fame). Sandy Powell designed the costumes. Brilliant!

Victoria's sheer straw bonnets are to die for! From what I've seen so far - really great late 1830s and early '40s costumes.

For more photos, visit The Costumers Guide.

Anyone know when we will be able to see this on the western side of the Pond?

Prep-ing the 1844 Bodice

2009-04-15T21:02:00.000-07:00

This past week I've taken apart my mock-up of the 1844 Summer Dress bodice and transferred all the fit markings to my paper pattern.

You can see I've shortened the bodice considerably so that it ends right at my waist. The skirt will be cartridge pleated onto a twill tape then tacked inside the bodice.

This will be worn over my 1830s/40s corset that I completed in 2007 for Costume College. The corset pattern is Past Patterns #001 Corded Stay.

You can see the fabric bending in at the waistline. The cording I put in was not enough support for my squishy form, so I've since added a bone at each side and bones around the CB grommets for support.

The corset could still use more boning and is a little large around my hips. I've thought about just tossing this corset and using my more comfortable Victorian corset but I want to be a bit more authentic with the popular solid busc front corset of the period.

This dress was initially for Costume College '07. All I finished was the undergarments. (The dress didn't get sewn and I needed sleep instead.) So I wore those around the hotel in my bonnet. It's funny how many people really didn't catch on to the fact that I was in my undergarments! The ruffled petticoat, shawl and bonnet really threw them off. :-)

C&C on Facebook

2009-04-11T12:44:00.000-07:00

Hi all! We've got a new page for Cloak & Corset set up on Facebook. We welcome you to become a fan.

If you are a regular reader here on the Historical Sewing Blog - you'll love receiving more frequent updates on our Facebook page. (Below is our profile photo so you can recognize us.)

Feel free to post your quick sewing questions, start a discussion, post your random musings of historical clothing, and upload photos of your costumes where you used techniques gained from our Learning Tools.

See you over there!

P.S. Happy Easter to all who celebrate this miraculous event.

Facebook | Cloak & Corset

2009-04-10T15:15:00.000-07:00

Facebook Cloak & Corset

Blue Bonnet and Bodice Fitting

2009-04-08T17:37:00.000-07:00

The late 1850s blue bonnet frame is finished! Thank you to my friend lana/Lily for helping design the trim placement. I have a lovely garden on my bonnet!

The frame was constructed from Miller's Millinery Late 1850s Low Brim Bonnet.

Actually it sits rather high above my small head. I had to cut an extra bias strip of the blue silk and gather it up to fit the inside brim so the white inside frame was not visible when wearing.

I absolutely LOVE my 5" wide yellow ribbon for the ties and trim. The wider your bonnet ties the more fashionable you are in society during this period. You can make your own wide ties by cutting straight strips of fabric and sewing a narrow hem (1/16" to 1/8" if possible). The ties will be pleated up narrow and sewn on the outside at the bottom brim points.

I will also add more ruched lace inside the brim at the jaw/cheek line for that "mutton chop" look so popular in the 1860s. What were they thinking of adding trim just to that area??

1844 Summer Dress progress:

Last weekend while at the Civil War Re-enactment at Prado Dam in Chino, CA I took advantage of being with sewing friends and had my 1844 bodice mock-up fitted over my 1830/40s corset.

The bodice started from the Truly Victorian 1845 Day Dress pattern. I've redrawn the stripe lines to match my fashion plate. My grainline will follow these. Because I've changed the grain slightly I will have to make a 2nd mock-up to double check the fit.

I'll be using some of the tips in the Flat Lining eBooklet to stablize my bias front pieces. You don't want those bias edges stretching!

The pattern was quite long on me around the hips and at the center point. In fact, you'd have to have quite a long waist-to-hip torso to keep it that length and look good. You can see how much I will be taking off.

Here is the plate and fabric again to see the stripe direction I'm going for. I love this fabric.

Remember when you are following a fashion plate the sketches, then and now, are not drawn to human scale. The proportions will be (usually) longer. So pay attention to how the design mock-up looks on YOU. Don't be so focused on your fashion plate that you forget to take your own body shape into consideration with good fit.

Please Excuse Our Hiccups

2009-04-02T17:39:00.000-07:00

My sincere apologies for those Cloak & Corset members who tried to download the free vintage article today. Sara and I deeply apologize for the inconvenience.

It seems our system didn't like 1884 fashion. :-)

For those still having problems:
Please copy and paste the link from the second email into a new Internet Browser window as your computer will only read it that way. OR right click on the link and “Open in a New Window” instead of clicking on the link. It should work for you by doing it either of these ways.

The file is large so be patient with your computer for it to download the full 8 pages.

We will be looking into what went wrong so in future months you can receive this great primary source information easily.

For those of you who have had a chance to read the vintage articles sent over the last few months, let us know what you think. Do you like them? Have you gained some new insight or design ideas? Are there particular eras you are looking for more information on?

So please excuse our hiccups as we work to provide you with valuable fashion information from the 19th and early 20th centuries.

Petticoat Tuck Placement

2009-04-01T19:08:00.000-07:00

Where to put your first tuck:

Here are the tucks on the reproduction petticoat:

Here are the antique drawers and their 1/16" wide tucks sewn in just above the flat-felled seam.

Never Too Many Projects At Once

2009-03-25T11:01:00.000-07:00

Do you often have more than one project going at the same time? How do you handle it?

I am currently working on:

Pleating silk bias strips for my late 1850s bonnet

A second 1780s bum roll as my first one is a bit too small for my hips

My 1844 bodice muslin to sew up for the first fitting

and a modern purple top that I started last year. (Gotta love finishing UFOs!)

I'm not insane. Truly.

Costume College Classes are posted!

2009-03-24T08:52:00.000-07:00

OMG! Can I take them all?

Go here to see what your choices are and those you will miss if you're not coming. :-(

(I'm actually quite interested in Bess's Cutwork Lace class, Kristin's Basic Hand Embroidery and the 18th C. quilted petticoat classes.)

1820s Regency Ballgown on eBay

2009-03-24T08:38:00.000-07:00

For those interested in early 19th Century clothing, Fiddybee has a wonderful example up for auction on eBay right now. She has taken terrific photos of the back closure that are great for studying how they fastened their gowns.

Enjoy researching!

18th C Stays Pattern

2009-03-21T11:25:00.000-07:00

In response to a comment about my last post, here is a picture of my final 1780s stays pattern with the boning channels drawn in. (As I mentioned earlier, boning placement was only lightly touched upon in the pattern instructions with no drawings of possible placements).

For those of you (18thcGirl) who've done nicely fitting stays, please see if this boning arrangement is suitable. I think it'll be just fine - according to my research and my 2 other previously sewn stays.

Also, I will be using flat metal boning at the center back (CB) around the eyelets and a couple in the center front for a bit of sturdiness. The rest will be 1/4" half-round cane.

Help here:

How do I go about cutting the cane?

Do I need to soak it first?

Can I use my tin-snips (that I use for hoop wire cutting)?

How do you smooth the cut ends?

As this is my first project with cane, I'm a little unsure. I have a HUGE roll of the cane so "messing up" is fine in trying to cut lengths I need. But I don't want this to be a two day chore either.

Any thoughts??

18th C Stays Cut Out

2009-03-20T08:24:00.000-07:00

I have been working! -really-

Wednesday I managed to copy out my entire pattern for the 1844 Summer Dress. Man, that took a lot longer than expected just to copy out my size for the bodice, retrace my already mock-ed up sleeves and draft the oversleeve. But it's done and now to cutting out and sewing the muslin.

I also cut cut out the pink silk for the outer fashion fabric of my new 18th Century stays as well as the twill I found in my stash. (My goal is to see how many costumes I can make this year without buying new fabric (underlinings and trims not included).

The pink is a bit darker over the tan twill rather than it being a nice bright PINK color on top of a white twill. But oh well.

After much playing, I've decided to sew the boning channels in a royal blue thread. Just for fun. I also thought of red or lime green. Or even a bright Big Bird gold/yellow.
Now wait - I've already decided - no changing of the mind.

And I really struggled with how to place the boning channels (which I will sew this weekend). The pattern gives hardly any suggestions for it: "draw in boning lines according to the picture at left. You can draw them parallel to the CF or fan them out to match the side seam."

OK. That doesn't help. Even for an experienced seamstress who's actually made two 18th C. stays before. SOME sort of layout would be nice. Too many options. Just tell me straight up what it should be for that view.

Anyhow, I spent too much time looking at originals and my own previously made stays to find a boning pattern I could live with. Somehow though, I find myself waning on this project. I blame it on the too expensive pattern with lack of clear directions. But must keep ploughing along. The fun comes with the first jacket and petticoat and those cannot be made without stays.

Back in the Sewing Room

2009-03-12T21:03:00.000-07:00

I took a much needed day yesterday to get back into my sewing room. It was so thrilling - there's a reason I call sewing my "passion" (and have since I was about 14).

After our Fort Knott's event was cancelled, I got bored with finishing my gray paletot. I mean, why finish anything if you're not going to use it for another year? I'll just tack the pinned-on fringe now, then later trace and sew on the cording during my "quite time" next fall/winter.

But to not disappoint you, here are photos of the current state:

Fringe is simply pinned on. Tacking will be soon.

So what DID I do yesterday?

Well, I went thru my fabric bins to freshen my mind as to what's in there. Ohhh, so many goodies and projects just waiting to be born. I found a half-finished modern shirt, tank top and skirt that'll take me all of a Saturday to finish them all. Yea for new clothes! And in purple too!

But my REAL projects are the new costumes! :-)

I've been talking with my good friend, Meg, this last week and she has inspired me to get off my 3-week long (or is it 4?) sewing laziness butt and Get With It on projects for Costume College. If you've been reading my blog posts here you know I've been trying to get into the 18th Century for a while. I'm really going to do it now. Really.

Or at least a little bit.

I've pulled out my lovely, thin, woven striped cotton for my 1843 summer day dress that I had intended to make for Costume College 2007. I ordered the 1845 German Gown pattern from Truly Victorian and, along with my previous notes on the design, will be completing the dress this spring.

Here is my inspiration (blue dress) and the fabric:

As for the rest of my afternoon, I spent it reading through the sewing instructions (greatly lacking in depth) of my new Reconstructing History 1740s-1790s Stays pattern, finding a suitable twill base from my stash along with choosing to use the leftover pink silk from my 1876 Evening Gown for the outer cover, copying the pattern and making a mock-up.

The mock-up was out of tagboard (same thing as file folders). As careful as I was, it did rip a little, but I managed to readjust the armhole so it was comfortable and move the center/side seam line for better placement on me (see on the right side in photo). I also shaped the tabs to fit over my hips and drew in five new shorter ones versus the seven drawn on the pattern. (I'm sorry - I don't want to spend that much time going around each of those tiny tabs with bias to finish.)

So current projects:

1780s Pink Stays
1843 Green Striped Summer Gown

I will definitely be posting progress reports!

They are NOT Bloomers!

2009-03-09T19:58:00.000-07:00

What do you call the 19th Century ladies' undergarment covering the legs?

Drawers

This week I was sent a sale newsletter from a historical clothing company (whom I love and would purchase from if not for the fact that I can make it all myself). I checked out their beautiful site and noticed they called the particular undergarment "bloomers".

This really super bugs me! THEY ARE CALLED DRAWERS - NOT BLOOMERS.
Bloomers are an outer garment.

History lesson: 1851 - Amelia Bloomer was a woman's suffragette and a bit of a rebel. She decided to wear men's trousers with a shortened skirt when seen on her friends, Libby Miller and Elizabeth Cady Stanton. But announced in Amelia's own newspaper, the outfit was penned the Bloomer Costume.

She wore the trousers to be seen. Those intimate leggings worn under skirts are NOT meant to be seen. They are underwear.

Now, the name, bloomers, have been attached to leggings worn by little girls in the later part of the century. And it's definitely used for other undergarments (seen or unseen) in the 20th Century. Also, in my research, pantalettes (mini-pants) were for girls only under their short dresses.

Let's not even get into "pantaloons". MEN wore them in the late Regency thru 1840s when pants stopped having foot straps attached, the legs became wider at the ankle, and they were called trousers.

So, please - if you are making proper ladies' undergarments in the 19th Century, PLEASE call them drawers.
My ears will be much appreciated.

Thank you. :-)

New Sewing Machine

2009-03-09T10:47:00.000-07:00

In the middle of working on my husband's Civil War Civilian outfit, consisting on a pair of pants, shirt, and vest, my sewing machine (or more-so, my mother-in-law's sewing machine as mine went out on me in the middle of my last Regency Dress) decided that it no longer wanted to work as well.

I really liked this White machine as it was an older one from 1983 and was made with all metal parts. It was really quiet and very smooth as it sewed. It started to make similar motor noises like my other one, a Brother machine, so I started to get concerned that maybe I had done something wrong as it seemed unlikely that two machines would just go out on in within a few months of each other.

The White machine had not been serviced ever, I believe, and it had not been oiled in a really long time. So after buying some machine oil (you want to make sure to use machine oil and not a different type of oil as that can ruin your machine) and lubricating the different parts according to the manual, the machine seemed to work just fine.

I worked with it for a bit and then stopped around the time of our annual business meeting weekend. After that weekend was over, I started sewing again but the machine started to have the same problems all over again.

So I tried to oil it once more but to no avail. I decided to also oil my Brother as I had not oiled it in a long time and I was hopeful that maybe that would fix it since it seemed to work, for a while at least, on the White. But there was no luck with my Brother.

I then bit the bullet and took both machines in to a local Sewing Machine Repair shop. There was no easy fix to either machine and both would need to go in for repairs with their mechanic in order to get fixed. On the White, the needle arm had been bent, which then causes other connected parts to get damaged and throw off the timing of the whole machine. On the Brother, there was a piece that was disconnected from the Balance Wheel that was making the machine think that it was constantly on bobbin-winding mode so it would never move the needle up and down like it's supposed to when it's not on bobbin-winding mode.

To have them repaired, it would take 1 to 1 1/2 weeks to get an estimate on the costs and then another couple of weeks before they would be fixed. Well, that would just not do as I had a 3 week deadline to get this outfit done before the next event (it wouldn't have come to this in the first place if I hand't procrastinated so long in getting started, but that's life for ya).

So, I asked for a recommendation on a good brand for sewing machines. The shop owner recommended Elna, a Swiss-made machine, which they also sell in the shop. I took down the information and went home to do some research of my own. After reading a lot of reviews online and making a few phone calls, the Elna brand seemed like a good choice.

I went back later that evening, dropped off the White to have an estimate done on it, and bought my new machine.

This machine is a bare basics type of machine with minimal options for stitches, but that's exactly what I need as I dont' do embroidery work and I don't mind doing manual button-holes with the machine. (By keeping it to just the basics, I was able to purchase a more inexpensive machine and not break the bank, even though I had not been anticipating buying a new machine right now.)

So far, the machine has done all that I've needed it to do and it works well. It is made with all metal parts, expect the outter casing and has a good warranty from both the Repair shop and from the manufacturer (which shows that it must be a good machine that lasts for a while as they would not want to put a long warranty on something that they will have to fix constantly).

My biggest tip for you when shopping for a new machine is to do your research. Find reviews online from people who have not only bought their machine but who have also used it for a period of time and talk to local Sewing Machine Repair shops for their advice - it's their business to know all about sewing machines, so pick their brain for their knowledge.

What's your #1 tip when picking out a new machine?

Civil War Articles in Piecework

2009-03-07T20:21:00.000-08:00

As pointed out by ViennaBelle, the newest Piecework magazine issue has a few articles on Civil War crafts including knitted articles. You can purchase the issue on their site here.

What IS on the Cutting Table?

2009-03-04T10:11:00.000-08:00

See what's on my cutting table today, March 4, 2009:

For the full 4 minute, detailed version of what's currently on my cutting table, please click here for the video on the CloakAndCorset YouTube channel.

18th C Fly Fringe - How To

2009-02-28T20:52:00.000-08:00

For those of you who love 18th Century fashion (or are starting to skirt around the petticoats and the Francaises, like me) I've just discovered an amazing tutorial on how to MAKE fly fringe! You know, that small trim on the edges of late 18th C. trimmings that has tiny threads cut to make bits of fringe.

Well, check out the instructions over at Fancy Girl. (Click on Fancy Work then Fly Fringe.)
Here is a photo of her hand-made trim:

Wow! Thanks Vivien.
Now for the patience, hours and yards of silk floss to make my very own.

How cool is that??

Colors Anyone?

2009-02-25T09:42:00.001-08:00

I do a lot of searching on eBay for antique garments. Mostly I see what's out there to study historical fashion design and materials. And occasionally I will bid on something.

But I've noticed lately (and I've been searching eBay for years) that most of the late Victorian bodices for auction are primarily black or dark colors. And the Edwardian items are primarily white.

Now, I'm not a textile conservator, so I'm wondering if black garments have survived because they are so prevalent in existence or if the colored dyes used back then destroyed the fabric in garments to not have them survive to reach us now.

I know color existed. Just look at all the delightful historical costume books and museum websites out there. And you *can* find the green dress or blue coat or the hot pink ball gown. However, I find it interesting that the Victorian black and Edwardian white is dominant in surviving clothing.

Does this then give us a bias thinking that many women wore black before 1900 and afterwards wore white? Does this have anything to do with Queen Victorian dying in 1901 (who wore black since 1861 when Albert died)?

How do we break out of this bias and be willing to attempt a brightly colored gown?

Colonial Times

2009-02-24T17:49:00.000-08:00

This past weekend I just finished the HBO mini-series John Adams.

Wow!

The art direction was amazing, the acting superb, the costumes gritty and real, and I was left with wanting more.

Life was breathed into the people we study as our Founding Fathers. The trials and joys experienced in 18th Century life was on full display.

Beautifully done. No wonder it's won so many awards and nominations.

Now to find my way to Colonial Williamsburg, Virginia to study more of this fascinating time of American history.

Has anyone been there? Any recommendations on where to stay or what to do?

19th Century Paper Dolls blog

2009-02-24T16:52:00.000-08:00

Today I stumbled upon this delightful blog of an artist that creates 2-D fashions of the past to be used with paperdolls. She pens terrific sketches and gives marvelous ideas to those of us who create 19th Century fashion in 3-D format.

What's On The Cutting Table - Men's Civil War Civilian Outfit

2009-02-18T20:49:00.000-08:00

Back in August, I started the steps towards making a Civil War Civilian outfit for my husband by finding and purchasing patterns. After I came to conclusion that I would not have the outfit finished in time for the Huntington Beach Park Event on Labor Day Weekend, I kind of put off the project as the next event we would be attending wasn't until February 2009. (Plus, I was in the middle of planning my sister's 30th birthday party and then the holidays started up).

So in December and January, I started to get things back into motion by making copies of all my pattern pieces and cutting out the mulsin for my mock-ups. I got a little deterred when I started to make the mock-up for the shirt. After reading through the instructions, I realized that they wanted me to hand sew just about every seam! Now, there's nothing wrong with hand-sewing, but when time is of the essence, it is definitely not for me.

That little set-back did not help me mentally push through this project and I, again, put it off for a bit. After a little while of tyring to mull over my dilemma, I decided to go forward with the waistcoat and the pants mock-ups to at least feel some sense of accomplishment. I finished the waistcoat in a few hours and that really helped my confidence and mindset (it's amazing how that can affect your sewing progress when they are in the right place!).

In the middle of all this, I started to have some problems with my machine but got it to work well enough after applying some oil. Then, Jennifer and I had our annual business meeting so my sewing had to be delayed for a bit.

Jennifer told me that there was a Simplicity pattern she had used before for a simple shirt but she was pretty sure it had been discontinued. We talked about modifying the Regency shirt we already have to "make it work" for just this one event as it was starting to be debatable as to whether or not I would even have time to sew these three garments.

The Monday after this weekend, I had more sewing machine problems and ended up buying a new machine. The next day, I took a trip to JoAnns and found a much easier shirt pattern that, although not for the right time period, would work well enough once modified a bit. I also found all the fabric that I needed for each piece - and I'm very excited about the fabric for the waistcoat!

I sat down with my new machine, finished the pants mock-up and hammered through the shirt mock-up. Now it was time for fitting.

The shirt fit well. The vest fit well, except it needed to be taken in just a bit on the sides. The pants...well, they were about two inches too small. And that is why you make a mock-up first! I can't even imagine what I would have done if I had just made the pants out of my fashion fabric without having done a mock-up first.

Last week, my sister-in-law, who is visiting from Guam while my brother-in-law is on a ship in the Pacific somewhere, was kind enough to lend me a hand and add width to my copied pattern pieces for the pants to make them big enough. (My husband also lent his hands by cutting out all the fabric for the shirt.)

I made the waistcoat in a day, except for the buttons and buttonholes.

I then moved on to the shirt and made that in another day and a half.

And then I started on the pants. Once I got them to the place where they were done enough to be tried on, I went ahead and had Jeremiah try them on just to make sure they fit.

But alas! Now they were too big. I guess I was over-zealous in estimating how much to add to the pattern pieces. Because of how the pockets were situated so closely to the seams, I debated starting over from scratch, which means I would have to go out and buy new fabric, wash it, cut it, finish the edges on some of the pieces as there is no lining to hide them, and so on. I really just couldn't fathom doing all those steps again.

So, after a slight breakdown and a nice hot shower, I composed myself, ate some of our favorite pizza (as this was supposed to be a fun pizza and a movie night for us but of course I had to just try on the pants "really quickly" before we got started), and figured out how to make the existing pants work.

The pants aren't perfect according to the pattern and the instructions because of this little fumble, but they work and I think they still look good. Unless you were looking at them really closely and new what they were supposed to look like, I don't think you could really tell that they were not made exactly right.

(Just needs two hooks and bars and the bottom cuffs hemed!)

So with that said, the pants and the outfit are complete! Eventually, I will remake those pants to the correct size and make the period-correct shirt, but for now, this will work just fine.

Next, the frock coat...but that will have to wait for another day (and maybe until after I complete some clothes for myself :)!

Rained Out - Hoop Project

2009-02-14T13:30:00.000-08:00

Due to the cold WET storm that was due to blow in this weekend, the HCA board voted to cancel our attendance at Knott's. Our group can handle cold, but rain and wind not so much.

However, today is nice and sunny here and the clouds are gone. But that was the thing - the rain was due all day Friday (set-up time) and another storm expected to arrive on Sunday (tear-down time). Yesterday was indeed quite wet and cool.

So to prevent pneumonia and other sicknesses for everyone, I've remained here at home sleeping in, doing random house cleaning, pulling weeds around the roses and sago palm, sewing and writing for Cloak & Corset.

With all the debate this week to cancel or not, I decided to plough ahead and finish my small hoop. I used the Laughing Moon Hoops & Bustles pattern, view A but left off the top two rows.

In the photos I have my bustle pad tied under the hoop to kick it out a bit in back.

( You can see the hoop angling up to the right (left in photo) which clearly shows off my higher right hip.)

Here's my basic round navy skirt over the small hoop and one plain petticoat. Man, I need another shorter petticoat with a couple of wide, stiff ruffles near the bottom now.

Overall not a bad look. I needed/wanted a smaller hoop for my widow's dress to reflect her lower station. However, I'll need to add that new petticoat to my Cutting Table list. The hoop itself was a day project. (How come I put it off for so long when it's really quite simple?!)

I cut the size 26 at the hem for a finished (according to the pattern chart) 88" and tapered to a size 18 at the waist. Well, the lower hoop row came out only 84" finished. So indeed, it is a small hoop - smaller than I wanted as I would have liked to err on the larger side of 90" instead of smaller. Oh well. Petticoat City here I come by way of Starch Creek....

Quick & Easy Reticule

2009-02-12T10:07:00.000-08:00

For the Jane Austen Evening this year, I was fortunate enough to not be scrambling around the night before trying to get both my husband's outfit and my outfit finished (unlike last year!). This year, Jeremiah wore the same outfit from last year and I wore a dress I had made back in September for my sister's 30th birthday party. (I did intend to add a few decorative touches to my dress before this event, but I just didn't get around to it and I did not want to stress myself out over it, so I put it off for next time.)

The morning of the event, I gathered all our clothes together and put everything by the door as we would be dressing at my sister's before the dance. As I was gathering everything, I realized that I did not have a reticule to go with my outfit (it's hard to go anywhere without a purse; I just feel naked without it, plus I needed a place to hide my camera and chapstick).

So, I decided that while Jeremiah was fixing my sister's computer at her place before the event, I would borrow her sewing machine to make a quick reticule to go with my outfit.

I looked through some scraps of fabric and found one that, although the colors did not match my dress at all, would do just fine (especially since it was already pre-washed and ready to go).

I used the pattern and instructions from the Modern Sewing Techniques for Historical Clothing Construction eBook (part of the new Accessories section). It was called a Quick & Easy Reticule. And it was.

I cut out the pieces at my place before we left and then did the rest in the little bit of time I had before we needed to start getting ready for the evening. The only thing I adjusted from the pattern was to add a layer of interfacing to give a little more sturdiness to my fabric. I also only added one side of the drawstring as the cording I had was pretty thick and two would not have fit inthe openings I had created. Other than that, the instructions were easy to follow and the reticule worked out very nicely for the entire evening.

If you want more great tips and sewing instructions like this Quick & Easy Reticule, make sure to check out the Modern Sewing Techniques for Historical Clothing Construction eBook today!

Jane Austen Evening 2009

2009-02-11T17:02:00.000-08:00

The Jane Austen Evening this year was on January 17th. Although it was quite different from last year, in the sense that we had a much smaller group in attendance for our party, it was still a lot of fun.

We arrived a few minutes late but got right into the dances (after a couple of trips back to the car for forgotten items - like batteries for the camera).

About 1/2 hour after we arrived, and after 2 trecks back to the car, we were walking back from the car for the third time and my husband's shoe fell apart! The soul was detaching from the rest of the shoe as, we then discovered, it had only been originally attached with glue.

After much debate between ourselves as to what to do, with GPS in hand, we borrowed my sister's car and headed out towards WalMart with the intention of "borrowing" a hammer with which to apply a nail.

After being led to a WalMart that is still being built, our trustly GPS led us to a different one only a few miles from it. I'm sure we got lots of looks as we strode inside adorning our period-wear, but that's when you just don't care.

I went straight for the shoe department to see if there were any kits available while Jeremiah went to the hardware department. The shoe repair kits needed a minimum of 24 hours after applying the glue before you were supposed to use the shoe...that just wouldn't do.

I joined Jeremiah where he was looking at some Super Glue. We found the cheapest pack they had (4 tubes for $1!) and opened it right then and there (there was no point in leaving until we found our solution).

I applied the glue liberally, and it started to ooz over the side of the shoe. Jeremiah quickly put the shoe on the ground and placed his foot inside to apply pressure. After a minute or so he tried lifting his foot but it was sticking to the ground! Luckily, with a little wiggling, we manage to get his shoe unattached from the WalMart floor but there is now some of this shoe residue permanently attached. :)

The glue seemed to do the trick! We quickly paid for the glue and made our way make to the dance hall so we could enjoy the rest of the evening dancing. And we did! The last 1 1/2 hours went by so quickly but we really had a lot of fun.

One of the positives about Jeremiah's shoe falling apart was that we could actually take the time to enjoy watching others dance and to take pictures of everyone dancing. That was something we missed out on last year as we were dancing almost every dance and that made picture-taking difficult.

So enjoy the pictures below from the Evening and enjoy the short video of my sister and me dancing the famous dance that Mr. Darcy and Lizzy danced for the first time in Pride & Prejudice, Mr. Beveridge's Maggot.

Sometimes I hate reality decisions

2009-02-04T13:25:00.000-08:00

Looking at the two projects I want completed for the Fort Knott's event next weekend (14th & 15th), I've reached that point that something has to give. I can sew fast but reality will throw things in the way that make me reconsider priorities.

1) I need to finish my paletot (it's still chilly here in So. Cal in February). The construction itself is so not hard - pretty easy anyway - but the hand couched trim is taking time. I've completed the trim on both sleeves and will be putting the rest of the jacket together today. But the couched trim on the hem is a minimum of 12 hours (estimated from the time it took for the sleeves).

Here's one completed sleeve with trim. The trim pattern is a Greek key taken from Godey's January 1860. I used the oh-so-modern technique of enlarging the pattern on my computer printer/copier and transferring to tracing paper.

2) And I would really like to complete the 90" smaller hoop I've talked about to wear under my widow's dress. It would be better for the character and more period appropriate than my larger 115" one that I usually wear.

So, the reality plan: sew up the paletot as it is right now. Finish with hand buttonholes, covered buttons and fringe trim applied to the bodice. Then sew up the 90" hoop. Then come back to the paletot (possibly after the Knott's event) to finish applying the trim to the hem.

Paletot Fitting

2009-02-04T13:05:00.000-08:00

Ugh.. the unfitted muslin

For my gray wool paletot (early 1860s style jacket) I drafted up the pattern from my black sheer widow's dress bodice. I knew pattern shapes for long, half-fitted (period term) paletot but ended up with some crazy sharp turns at the waistline and strong bias skirt edges.

After I sewed up the muslin and dressed my dressform with hoop and skirt and paletot muslin, I promptly took a break. Oh no - it really didn't fit. Or rather, the bodice back part did, the front seemed way too big (no shaping at all) and the lower part was too tight over the hoop. sigh...

On my break I studied a massive amount of CDV's and orginal articles (over 1000!) brought to me by my friend Bridget.

(One a funny side note - I found one, just one, CDV of a woman (clearly female) with a side-part hairstyle. Now, that was a man's favored hair parting, but if I wanted to stand out in my Civil War group I have proof that at least one woman who did it.)

Anyway, I changed my trim options several times (remember I have 4" rayon fringe and rattail cord to play with). I found NO original paletots photographed or in CDVs that had fringe along the hemline. Sleeves, yes. Bodice, yes. Hem, no.

After an hour of studying I decided to go tackle the fitting.
Tools: scissors, pins and extra muslin pieces, oh and colored pens and a pencil.

Here are the final fitted shots:

Look at the front - you can see space between the waist and the sleeve - excellent!

Side view:

Fitted back and hem lengthened:

I'm was much more excited about this garment after I successfully fitted the muslin. I then tore apart my mock-up and used it as my new pattern (transferring the muslin markings to paper).

More later...

Planning Weekend

2009-01-26T20:24:00.000-08:00

This weekend Sara, me and our guys met in San Diego for a Cloak & Corset planning meeting.

After hours of discussions, a few ice cream shakes (Corvette Diner Rocks!) and several rounds of cards (Rook and Hand & Foot), we have created a variety of upcoming eZine articles (free to members as always!), a handful of new eBooklets, one eBook, and lots more goodie information to help you in your historical sewing.

Members, watch for a survey in February that comes with a Free Gift for telling us what you need to know about making historical clothes.

Of course you don't have to wait until next month to ask us sewing questions - Tell us now, so we can show you how.

On Saturday, we visited Ocean Beach in Point Loma. While on the pier we recorded a brief video for the website. Here are a couple of photos from the day.

The tide coming in:

Tide pools at low tide:

Planning the video script:

And the best burgers in San Diego - Hodads:

January's Project

2009-01-21T20:51:00.000-08:00

Finished: The new sergeant stripes onto my husband's Civil War jacket.

Next: An early 1860s paletot (jacket) for my upcoming Civil War event at Knott's Berry Farm. It can get chilly in the evenings and I want a period outerwear garment to keep warm in besides my lovely 12 foot paisley wool shawl. Nice, but I want a travel-appropriate garment.

In the photo, clockwise from top left: 1863 Godey's jackets, an early 1870s paletot from The Gilded Age (Putnam Co. Museum), my sketched design with pagoda sleeves, fringe and cording put on in a Greek pattern, and a 1861 full-length paletot from RL Shep's book Civil War Ladies.

I found a lovely grey wool suiting at JoAnn's for 30% off. I then wandered over to the trim aisle. (I know, you're probably thinking "Why is she doing that? Their selection leaves much to be desired for historical trim. True, but I didn't want to spend time shopping online, I didn't know what I was looking for, and I had coupons to use.)

I found a gorgeous rayon (ok, it's close to silk!) fringe that looks more period than the basic poly fringe they've carried for years. I had to decide on the great plum or royal blue. The decision was made when I found a nice rattail cord in the same blue. The blue trim will also coordinate with more of my dresses (not that that's important but the blue was just stunningly Victorian against the grey wool and my character has the means to purchase it, even during war times).

I spent a few hours last night tracing out my Widow's dress bodice, drafting it larger for a coat pattern and extending it for an approx. 27" back length. I still need to draft the pagoda sleeve then the muslin can be sewn and fitted over my dress on my dressform. I will be using the information in Ch. 28 - Waist Tapes from the eBook to keep the back fitted.

Stay tuned for more progress updates as this jacket will be finished in the next couple of weeks.

Piano Lesson = Sewing Time

2009-01-18T19:56:00.000-08:00

How much can you accomplish while your husband is busy giving a 1/2 hour piano lesson?

Let's see:

Repair the 1/2" on the torn skirt opening seam on Widow's Dress

Repair the small tears (3) on fancy drawers

Repair the rip on petticoat waistband

Remove 9" bones in side seam of navy bodice and replace with 7" bones so they won't poke me behind the armpit causing deep bruising

Wow! So much accomplished when you put your mind to it.

And yesterday I hung my new thread rack that holds 120 spools. I cleaned out my cutting table drawer and sorted the spools by color. Yea for organization! 'Course not ALL my thread fit on it, but it's so much easier to see what colors I have.

I'm now sewing the new sergeant stripes onto my husband's Civil War jacket while planning the design for a new paletot. I found a practical and authentic gray wool and gorgeous royal blue rayon fringe and rattail for trim. This new project is for our first Civil War event at Fort Knott's Feb. 14th and 15th.

Are you: Just Starting Out or An Advanced Costumer?

2009-01-06T21:03:00.000-08:00

My thought of the day:
Of those who have purchased my eBook: Modern Sewing Techniques for Historical Clothing Construction - are they beginners into this world of playing dress up? Are they advanced costumers looking for that one trick or two to cut down the time they spend on a step?

Why haven't some of my fellow-costuming friends picked up a copy? (you know who you are) Do they think the eBook is too simple or beginner-oriented? Should it be?

How does one bridge the gap between those who don't know a chemise from a chemisette to my friends who think they know it all about historical costuming but secretly still search for the way to make hand eyelets easy and FAST?

How can I reach both sides?

Hedgehog Handworks January 2009 Sale

2009-01-05T19:45:00.000-08:00

Hey all – I received this email on Friday from Joady at Hedgehog Handworks and I just had to share.
She’s put her whole store on sale thru January! Be sure to stock up on her discontinued supplies as well as the new costume books.

Thanks to Joady for this terrific sale! I know I’m going shopping.

From: Joady <news@hedgehoghandworks.com>
To:
Sent: Friday, January 2, 2009 1:51:36 PM
Subject: Hedgehog Handworks January 2009 Sale

HAPPY NEW YEAR!

IMPORTANT NEWS

both

Good and Bad

We have made the decision to discontinue corset bones, busks, corset coutil, bone casing, grommets, hoop wire. etc. When in-stock supplies are exhausted, that's it!

Our current selection of needlework fibers, fabrics, real metal threads, tools and other supplies will be expanded.

Books on costume, textiles, needlework, and the odd subject that catches our fancy will, of course, continue to be carried. New books on all subjects will be added to the site soon!

And for the best news -

15% Off Everything in the Store!

Visit our website.

Everything in the store is on sale for 15% off the regular price for the entire month of January.

Start saving now!

Gift Certificates

In a quandary about what to buy for your favorite stitcher or seamstress, or don't know what to put on your own wish list?

Gift Certificates are a handy solution to both problems. It's easy to do directly through the site.

Purchase a Gift Certificate now.

About Hedgehog Handworks Customer Service Privacy Policy
For Assistance, contact us online, or for immediate assistance call toll-free: 888-670-6040 .

This email was sent to you from Hedgehog Handworks (http://www.hedgehoghandworks.com/). You are receiving this email because you have purchased something from us or indicated that you were interested in receiving information from us.

What's On The Cutting Table for 2009

2009-01-01T15:40:00.000-08:00

I have an 11-year daily journal that has a page for goals for each year. Each December/January I start listing new goals of General Things (lose 20 lbs., buy new car, etc.), Books to Read (Little Women, Harry Potter 7 (again), North and South (Gaskell), The Duchess biography, etc.), Business/Work goals, and Sewing Projects.

While I know I'll be focusing on some 18th C. pieces, other time periods keep calling to me as well (such as my Civil War reenacting wardrobe and Regency that I love at any time).

So far on the list for 2009 is:

90" Hoop for my new widow's dress.

I'm using the Laughing Moon Hoops & Bustles pattern, view A but without the top two hoop rows. My current main hoop is 115", but I want a smaller one to stick with the poorer situation of my character. I'll reserve my 115" and 125" hoops for my Elizabeth character.

18th C. Stays with reed boning

I already have a lovely cream brocade corset from the JP Ryan pattern (although it still needs 6 hand eyelets to be completely finished). However, I heavily boned it with the usual flat metal bones. This sucker is heavy! My bullet-proof vest. No wonder I haven't finished the eyelets.

Well, I want to make a lighter weight one. Reed is period appropriate and the best way to achieve a more delicate set of stays.

I'm now torn as to what pattern to begin working from: making the JP Ryan Strapless Stays again or the Mantua Maker's 18th C. Stays.

Anyone use the Mantua Maker pattern before? I've made up her Victorian and Regency corsets and the size I used was a bit small to my measurements. Of course I'll mock up the pattern first, though not sure what I want to start with.

Any opinions/ideas out there??

Of course I could branch out and try the Reconstructing History 1740s - 1790s Stays (never have used her patterns)

or even take the time to draft out of Corsets & Crinolines. (I sigh at that idea.)

1780s Caraco & Petticoat

I watched The Duchess last night (Yea! for DVDs!) and liked Georgiana's white caraco (with long tail/peplum) and matching petticoat in the scene where she gives up Eliza. My sheet set from Ikea would be perfect for this costume. Although as I study more 18th C. I do believe anything from the 1780s and early 1790s would be a great addition to my costume closet. There's so much I want to make!

I have simply loved this JP Ryan Jacket pattern for years. So I see not just a matching caraco and petticoat but a few other jacket and petticoat ensembles in my future.

1850s Blue Silk Bonnet

I started this Miller's Millinery pattern over a year ago and it's still not finished - although I did make good progress on it last August. It just needs to get finished.

These 4 are "officially" on the list. Of course I will get sidetracked - my attention pulled in other directions - and miscellaneous work will pop up onto the cutting table, both expected and not.

And there are still the small repairs from my last post of the two petticoats, drawers and widow's dress seam to fix.

Now that the holidays are over I can concentrate on getting these little things off my table and my time onto larger projects. Oh! and mustn't forget my hubby's new sergeant's stripes onto his Civil War jacket as he was recently promoted from corporal. His (and my) first event of the season is on Valentine's weekend so I should do it NOW and not delay until two days before. (How many of us know that procrastination??)

As I think of more garments I want to sew, you'll see them posted here - along with their progress. And please let me know your opinion on what corset pattern I should work from because that will be one of the first garments I attack.

Happy 2009 to All and Happy Sewing on your own chosen projects!

18th C. Fashion blog review - Ann Lauren

2008-12-28T10:26:00.000-08:00

I discovered this fabulous blog post by Ann Lauren about 18th Century Fashion. It is quite extensive and covers a good deal.

So if you're looking for just what they wore (including undergarments, men's and women's clothing, outerwear, hats, jewelry and accessories) this is a good post to read.

Stick with Cloak & Corset and we'll show you how to sew these period items.

Enjoy!

Men's Wear, huh?

2008-12-22T08:42:00.000-08:00

I see many of you will be making men's wear next year (as voted on in the current poll).

What particular garments are you planning on sewing?

Breeches, pants, etc.?

Waistcoat, vest?

Frock coat, tail coat, morning coat, banyan, jacket, cape, etc.?

Please post a comment with your plans!

Ikea Sheets for 1780s

2008-12-22T08:37:00.000-08:00

Here's a quick picture of that king sheet set I mentioned in my last post. I love the delicate flowers and with a nice linen underlining it will make a sweet caraco (or gown - haven't decided which) and petticoat (skirt in 18th C. terms).

(18th C.) Cotton Girl!

2008-12-19T16:12:00.000-08:00

So today I ran into Beverly's for some ring tape for my mini-Roman shade. (Thanks to Twila and her tutorial for reminding me of that time saver instead of sewing 20 rings to the drape by hand.)

Well, I had to walk past the wonderful quilting cotton fabrics. I'm such a Cotton Girl! Always have been too. Well, it makes me want to sew a day dress again. Now, I have no idea what time period or design but just that I want to make a cotton dress.

After the first of the year the major fabric stores will start putting out tons of spring fabrics. It's the best time! I get so inspired by spring fabrics and colors.

Perhaps I just need to dig out that lovely white floral fabric (actually a sheet set from Ikea (I know - I'll look like I purchased my cloth from the same dry goods merchant as so many others.) and get started on a 1780s gown and petticoat like this 1780s robe 'a l'anglaise from the Kyoto Costume Institute.

Or maybe a robe and petticoat like this:

I have so much fabric in the king size sheets I purchased so I can get a full costume or two out of them. Then again, one out of this fabric, although cute, is enough. Besides, one gets bored sewing on the same fabric for too long!

eBook progress

2008-12-17T07:41:00.000-08:00

The 2nd edition of the Modern Sewing Techniques eBook is nearly ready for publication in just a couple of weeks.

Lately I've written 4 new chapters, 3 new accessory patterns with sewing instructions, 2 new and updated Free bonus chapters and added TONS of new photos. Whew...

(Did I forget the partridge and pear tree? No! We will have a lovely Free gift to all our members next week!)

Happy Sewing!

New Live Journal blog

2008-12-15T22:39:00.000-08:00

Hi all!
For those of you following The Historical Sewing Blog - Thanks!

Just a quick note to say that I've opened a Live Journal account for those who read and write over there. If you do, please friend CloakAndCorset!

I will only occasionally post on LJ while The Historical Sewing Blog - where you are right now - will continue to remain the primary place for all our sewing projects and news.

We welcome your visits and comments on the happenings at Cloak & Corset.

What's On The Cutting Table - old projects/repairs

2008-12-14T11:38:00.000-08:00

*I have a small window right next to my front door, so yesterday I decided to finally pull out my fabric and cut out a small (10") wide soft shade. With a quick trip to Home Depot for the wood mounting and hardware, it'll be up by the end of the week.

*I have so many repairs to do! Several of my pieces got sightly ripped at the Moorpark event in early November. Arghhh. A necessary evil.

1. Drawers - lower facing point to reinforce

2. Petticoat - I'm lazy and have never sewn on a proper hook/bar so I've been using a safety pin. Well, this time I stepped on the hem and it ripped a nice square chunk out of the waistband. So another repair/reinforcement. Maybe I'll get a hook on this time.

3. Black widow's dress - the top of the seam at the skirt opening came out a bit - this with a 9" opening! So have to reinforce.

4. Hook and bar on my black linen petticoat

5. Belt loop that came off on a modern Gap skirt.

6. Modern capri denim pants that some how got a vertical tear near the zipper placket. Wonder if I accidentally snagged it with my seam ripper....

And then it's on to finishing my 1860s blue silk bonnet and 90" hoop for the widow's weeds. (I'm using a modified version of View A from the Laughing Moon Hoops and Bustles pattern.)

Ohhh - a pink dress

2008-12-11T21:13:00.000-08:00

Like I need another pink bustle dress! Well, honestly, my recent 1876 gown was mostly white with a little pink. I don't have a PINK dress at all.

As I was searching for photos to insert into the updated Glossary (a bonus with the eBook) I found this lovely fashion plate from Godey's Lady's Book February 1876.

And wouldn't you know it - I already have 7 yards of 60" wide silk taffeta the exact same color!

However I'd probably have to order a couple more yards as 7 would be a stretch to get that entire train poofed.

But I can't think about that now.

I'll think about that tomorrow after the 2nd edition of the eBook is released and I've made new 18th C stays and about four 18th C outfits I already have fabric and designs for.

Insane Project - 1956 Day Dress

2008-12-10T08:26:00.000-08:00

Last weekend the LA Conservancy held their 3rd Annual Holiday Movie Screening. This year they showed White Christmas - one of my favorite movies. (really!) I grew up watching this film and even now I put it on a good 4 or 5 times a year - July included.

Well, because of my friend Becky, I decided I HAD to drive down to see this movie on the big screen. That meant a new period appropriate dress.

The film came out in 1954 and was set contemporary. So I found this lovely Vintage Vogue pattern #Vogue 1044. I had sewn a Vintage Vogue pattern before (a 1940 pattern) so knew of the challenge. The first pattern ran small so I proceeded with caution.

After cutting out the pattern, I refocused my thoughts on modern clothes sewing and altered the pattern I do when I make my own contemporary clothes. I dropped the apex and sliced the bodice open for a larger bust cup, reduced the back bodice width, and shortened the skirt (considerably).

The skirt reminded me of 19th C. skirts in that it had 4 full panels. The 60" wide crepe was open flat to cut so I had to dig out my cutting board for the floor as my cutting table is only 28" wide. Here are two panels being cut out on my sewing room floor.

I sew in assembly-line fashion. Here are the bodice darts and tucks, front placket and belt sewn and ready for ironing.

The raglan sleeve yoke neckline was finished with a yoke facing. Here it is pinned. I made sure to follow proper sewing seam directions to not distort the wide neckline.

I even made a belt for this dress. Once I found my loop turner I was in business.

And to top it off, I purchased a vintage hat, tore off the nasty cloth daisys and recovered it with a nice gray wool and wool flower.

And the finished dress:

At the theater:

And me in my new 1950s hat:

I love the hat so I will probably wear it to work once in a while.

Thanksgiving Trip

2008-11-30T11:47:00.000-08:00

My husband and I had a chance to travel to my small hometown in northwest New Mexico this holiday weekend.

We drove through snow and slush in northern Arizona, experienced cold, howling winds, got a small bit of shopping done (Yea! for a large cutting mat at 50% off!), walked through the local musuem, enjoyed yummy cherry shakes from Blake's Lota-Burger and generally had a grand time.

I was so grateful of the time for this vacation as I haven't been "home" for a holiday in three years.

In the museum I found school photos of my grandfather and great aunt. Fabulous! It's kinda cool when you have such family history and connections with a community. I found out that my great-grandfather was mayor in 1946-48! I had no idea.

As was mentioned in the November eZine article, photos are a great primary source to study fashions and hairstyles from the past. The above photographs are such snapshots in time.

I hope all who celebrate the Thanksgiving holiday had a good day. We all have many things to be thankful for.

Cheers!

Jane Austen Festivals

2008-11-23T18:58:00.000-08:00

I always crash/take time off from my sewing room whenever I finish a big project. Well, I recently finished two (the 1830s green silk Wives & Daughters Picnic dress and my new 1862 Widow's dress).

But now that it's been a couple weeks from the Moorpark event, my mind has been going again on projects I'd like to do. Despite my love of 1870s bustle fashions, I have more Regency costumes in my closet.

So in updating the Resources page with numerous online merchants and research sites, I ran across this blog on a Jane Austen Festival - in Australia. For those of you down there, if you attend next April - PLEASE send updates and pictures!

I would so love to attend myself. However, I think my first large scale Jane Austen Festival will be in Bath, UK.

...Then again, my brain has been tossing around a few ideas to implement on this side of the world in California.

Widow's Weeds - Bonnet & Veil

2008-11-18T20:57:00.000-08:00

I was just so pleased with the bonnet project! My friend Bridget led me to Just Two Tailors for straw forms and told me to spray paint the form black before trimming out.

I love the shape of their high brim bonnet and how it sits around my small head (as opposed to the styrofoam head).

However, after painting, my sewing needle and then later hat pin would flake off the paint. When all the sewing was finished I had to go back and touch up those parts of natural straw that were showing through. Perhaps I should have used a primer first.

I lined the inside with chiffon (really important so your hair doesn't get caught in the straw) and added the silk curtain. Then I made up two rows of folded silk taffeta that was 1/2" pleated and tacked along the inside edge of the brim. I might go back and add a ribbon or silk rose/flower to the center inside brim when I decide to "progress" into 2nd mourning.

The embroidered veil was also a recent find on eBay (gotta love that site). In October there were quite a few black veils up for auction. I snagged this narrow one. You should have seen the rinse water in the sink! Yuck. But at least it cleaned up well and most of the smell is gone. I used a drop of Woolite to wash it.

Soon I headed to Acme Notions and ordered their 5" black ball hat pins. While there, I found 3" pins that worked perfectly in attaching the veil to the bonnet.

I do believe the solid black bonnet and veil stamp this as a deep mourning widow's costume. I will definitely be wearing it again at future events.

Widow's Weeds - The Undersleeves

2008-11-18T20:40:00.000-08:00

Because I wanted to introduce Mrs Minton as a new (3 mo. old) widow, I wanted the correct first-year mourning black undersleeves.

I used the dress coat sleeve pattern and made adjustments as given in the Undersleeve mini-report to create appropriate undersleeves.

The upper portion and narrow cuff is black sateen (again, from my stash) with silk chiffon for the lower part. Can I just say how I hate sewing with silk chiffon?! Probably one reason I'm known as the Cotton Girl as cottons stay put - silk chiffon likes to go explore every centimeter of my table and machine.

For the Moorpark event I was lazy and just safety pinned them to the bodice. I will go back and add tie ribbons.

I like undersleeves as 1) they are ever so appropriate for this era and 2) they just look fabulous rolled up and over with the dress sleeves when you are working and washing dishes.

Widow's Weeds - The Dress

2008-11-18T20:17:00.000-08:00

The day after I thought up my new widow character I got busy searching for fabrics and accessories and studying as many CDVs and existing mourning wear I could find in a short amount of time. It was a very quick two weeks to get everything designed, lined up, ordered, purchased, shipped and collected. Many thanks go to my friend Bridget for her fabulous links to online vendors.

My new character, Mrs Minton, is of the lower working class (owns a small apple farm), so I was definitely not making the dress in silk. To keep cool in the hot California weather, I decided on a sheer dress fabric with a black cut-down bodice lining and petticoat in linen so the whole dress would pull very black.

After the black sheer striped fabric I ordered from Kay Gnagey failed to appear in her store, she quickly refunded my order where I took the funds over to Beverly's Fabrics and bought the last 8 yards of black striped sheer. It was just enough for I put four panels into the skirt.

The petticoat linen was ordered from FashionFabricsClub.com, took 10 days to arrive, then showed up as a charcoal gray black not black black. I have an embroidered black linen dress in my closet I made a few years ago that is black black. That's what I expected. I was so disappointed.

So back to Beverly's for 1 yard solid black cotton for the bodice lining. I resolved myself to use the linen for the petticoat as my character has been in mourning before (for children) and the linen has "faded" over time.

For the design, because I was using cotton and making this dress quickly, I pulled out my well-fitted pattern used for my green sheer dress. But instead of gathered sleeves, I used the coat sleeve from Simplicity 4551 . I took my fitted lining and cut down the neckline a bit more mimicking the CDVs I found.

Both of the above photos are of mourning wear - black collars indicate this. Both dresses are of sheer fabric with a cut-down lining you can see.

My four-paneled skirt was fully cartridge pleated to twill tape that was then tacked inside the bodice waistband. The 5" deep hem is finished with 1/2" bias tape to help with wear.

I made a plain belt in silk taffeta and made a buckle from a metal finding found on eBay. Belts were SO popular in the 1860s and you don't see too many of them at events. I love the belt.

As seen in many period photographs, I found a bit of 3" flat lace in my stash and darted it up to fit the neckline of the finished dress. I finished it with bias tape and tacked it inside the bodice. My brooch was another lucky find on eBay. It looks like jet but is really plastic, possibly from the mid-20th Century.

Widow Project - Introducing Mrs Minton

2008-11-16T20:06:00.000-08:00

On the way home from the Wives & Daughters Picnic in September, the Gemini in me decided to create a new character for Civil War events. I'm normally Mrs Rosbrugh from Maryland who's from a well-to-do upper middle class family with her husband off to fight for the North.

Lily, who manages members with our group, wants to see us expand into more class portrayals with a distinct separation of those with and without money. As we develop our first person impressions, the clothes we wear, how we talk and interact, and even personal possessions reflect those characters who would have lived in the early 1860s.

So as a complete change from the monied Mrs Rosbrugh, I created Mrs Minton - a woman who's recently had her oldest son run off to find his father in the military, her youngest daughter die, then hearing word that her husband died a few days after a bloody battle. She is Southern, being born and raised near the town in North Carolina.

Mrs Minton owns but a small apple orchard just outside of town and Oak Street. Without help to keep her field and any income, she approaches Mrs Cressman at the Johnson Oak Inn to become a parlor maid, working for food and possibly a bit of money.

I wanted to really make a contrast between my two characters. Mrs Minton debuted last Sunday at the Moorpark Reenactment. It will take another appearance or two for the rest of the town to get to know her and to become familiar with my new impression as we develop new scenarios and interactions.

Pictures from Sara's Birthday Vegas Trip

2008-11-14T19:45:00.000-08:00

Relaxing in the Jacuzzi at South Point (technically on the Strip but about 2-3 miles South of it) where we stayed for our first night.

The accommodations were very nice and new, but the customer service kind of stunk.

If you are there at a meal time, their Buffet was amazing (and so was their pool and jacuzzi)!

The next two nights, we lived it up at the MGM Grand - the Lion Habitat was so cool.

This moving and talking tree was inside the lobby of the Bellagio as part of their Fall decorations. The decorations were so beautiful - definitely a must see.

My very special dinner and "birthday cake" (Bananas Foster) at the Rain Forest Cafe.

Me and my hunny after the Cirque du Soleil show Mystere.

Moorpark Encampment

2008-11-11T08:07:00.000-08:00

Thanks to all who came by Oak Street to say hi. Quite a number of you visited!

Saturday was fabulous weather that brought bright sunshine, constant battle maneuvers, an opportunity for a REAL tintype photograph (with my husband's unit the 2nd Vermont Volunteers), a blazing fire sunset, lively dancing and terrific conversation.

Sunday morning blew in with a vengeance with strong, cold gusts threatening to make our flys into sails. We could have floated to Death Valley if we had wanted to! And the dirt that came with it - yikes! I'm still finding black dirt in my skin crevices.

Apparently our camp on the main pedestrian road became the wind blocker to the entire encampment. Walk 200 yards and you were in the warm sun with only the slightest breeze.

Here is a video taken by Jessi Selleh for the Ventura County Star.

Much of the video shows our Oak Street and activities. You can hear the wind whistling in the background.

If you catch me dressed in all black, stay tuned for a post of my new secret project that I debuted on Sunday of the event.

Moorpark Reenactment this weekend

2008-11-07T08:00:00.000-08:00

Hi all!

Sorry for the late post, but I wanted to let those of you in the So. California area that the largest Civil War reenactment in California is this weekend (Nov. 8 and 9) in Moorpark (Ventura Co.).

My civilian group, Historical Citizens Assoc., will be there with a full set up. Our members portray residents and business workers on Oak Street (in the walnut grove to be specific).

If you are in the area, or just want a day trip to the 1860s, please come out. And if you do, please come find me around the Johnson Oak Inn. I would love to meet you!

Jennifer
aka Mrs. Rosbrugh or Elizabeth while at camp

Where have all the pockets gone?

2008-11-05T09:46:00.000-08:00

I'm usually the only one at my work to get dressed up for Halloween. Since I work for a small business, the owners don't mind my "unusual" clothes as long as my work isn't hindered by them. (In the summers I'll sometimes wear my 1920s dresses and hats.)

So for this Halloween I decided to wear a Civil War dress but with only my corded petticoat for support as my office is quite small. (Please remember to wear proper drawers with your corded petticoat so your legs are not irritated by the cording. :-)

Well, wouldn't you know it? As I was getting dressed on Friday morning I realized my smallish, black modern purse just didn't go with my lovely 1863 navy dress. And for some reason, with each new Civil War skirt I make I seem to completely forget about adding one or more pockets in the seams. I don't even make a oh-so-period watch pocket. Argh...

Will I ever learn that pockets in 1860s skirts are invaluable to carry modern necessities? Help! Anyone have any ideas on how I can memorize this important construction step?

Costumer's Guide website

2008-10-29T08:20:00.000-07:00

If you are at all interested in movie costumes, I highly recommend Maggie's site: The Costumer's Guide to Movie Costumes. I found this site a year or two ago and finally saved it to my bookmarks.

She posts fairly regularly, mostly of new photos people have sent to her or ones she's found. Great research pictures if you're doing movie costume reproduction.

I thoroughly enjoy reading about the reusing of movie costumes among our favorite costume dramas. Quite a few are shown on the 10/9/08 post. Enjoy!

Have a safe and Happy Halloween!

Even if you don't "celebrate," it makes a great excuse to wear one of your favorite costumes to work, the grocery store, or a restaurant.
What fun to have a lovely attired group invade In-N-Out Burger or even Denny's.

Costume Proof - The Duchess

2008-10-21T07:51:00.000-07:00

In response to my last post on the film The Duchess, the specific costume pointed out from the UK article and the comment posted, I wanted to offer up some corresponding references that designer, Michael O'Connor, might have used for this particular costume.

I'm really liking the 1780s. I guess this comes from my first love of the 1870s Bustle era. So the blue bodice and fluffy cream skirt just took my breath away. One costume I'm dying to re-create is the green striped bodice and embroidered cream skirt as seen in Fashion by Kyoto Costume Institute.
This photo above is from their on-line gallery. In the book it is beautifully displayed with a cream sheer skirt embroidered at the hem and a tall black and green hat. You can tell from the display in the book it is very similar to what O'Connor created for Keira (blue jacket and cream skirt).

Now, in my research, I have not seen too many skirts/petticoats (as worn with bodices) with the overskirt and ruffle like you see in The Duchess. Most have been single layer. One could confuse the look of the movie costume as being a Chemise a' la Reine (see below) with a bodice worn over it to look like a jacket. But it is definitely a bodice and separate skirt with a fichu over her neck and tucked into the bodice.

Chemise gowns of the early 1790s were white, fluffy and airy - close to how the movie skirt is made up.

When I flipped through several pages of the Kyoto book, I quickly noticed that most of the bodice/skirt combinations were dated c.1790. So that clearly makes the costume circa 1790s too.

Another good picture from the book shows a blue silk embroidered jacket over a cream sheer skirt right next to a pink silk gathered neckline jacket over a striped cream sheer skirt. Both could have been used as inspiration for the film's outfits.

For further study, please look into the Kyoto book for more references to this look. If you find more examples of this particular design, please share!

Costume Design: The Duchess

2008-10-14T14:32:00.001-07:00

The UK's Telegraph website has a recent article on the costume design of The Duchess. Above is a particularly great screen shot of one of my favorite costumes worn by Keira Knightley. Just brilliant.

I was finally able to see this new costume drama last weekend. (I was disappointed when it was first released Sept. 19 as it was severely limited - like only one theater in LA! But pleasantly discovered while at the Wives & Daughters Picnic that it was opening wide on Oct. 10. Excellent.)

I had to wonder about the plot because I didn't quite know what the filmmakers wanted us to get out of her life. I've only scanned brief sections of the Amanda Foreman biography and Lady Georgiana (Geor-ja'-na) did not have too happy a life. Fortunately the movie only touched on a few of her hardships.

The movie is a fabulous, constant drool-fest for gorgeous 18th Century clothes. The film starts in 1774 and takes us into the early 1790s. If you are at all interested in Georgian costumes, go see this movie! It gives much to discuss there.

Oh, and the wigs and hats are to die for.

Go here for the Telegraph article. Enjoy!

Sara's Sewing Progress - Civil War Outfits

2008-10-13T20:03:00.000-07:00

Well, my progress on this project has been at a halt for a while now as my focus first switched to a different project, a new Regency dress, and then to something new that I can't quite share with you yet - but I will as soon as I can.

This weekend, my husband and I went out window shopping and he ended up buying me an early Birthday gift (seeing as we had a 50% off coupon for that weekend only). What was it? A cutting table!

That might not be very exciting to most people, but to anyone that sews a decent amount and knows the pains, literally, of cutting out fabrics on a table that is too short for your height, it is a wonderful gift.

We set it up as soon as we got home as my husband says I can use it before my birthday (in less than a month now) since I am trying to work on some new projects - he's so sweet. His only condition to allowing me to use it beforehand is that I have to keep the bow on it until my birthday - that shouldn't be too hard :)

So with my new table in place, I have once again started on the Civil War outfits. Currently I am still making copies of my patterns. I have the Vest completed copied and am now working on the shirt. Next will be the pants and then it's on to cutting out the muslin for my mock-up.

The progress has been slow but it's still progress and that's what counts!